How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

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Rollo
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How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by Rollo » Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:13 pm

The recent glue shutdown has me wondering how many lines at the red had to be held together by glue.
Malice was mentioned in the other thread.
I seem to remember some serious epoxy on the arete of Seeker.
Remember when Where's My Chisel had a plastic hold bolted on it?
And on the third day, God created the Red River Gorge(by conjecture), and he saw that it was good.

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by allah » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:06 pm

I won't name the routes but I can think of 10 possibly 11

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by rhunt » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:07 pm

Next, ask how many routes have been "chipped"?...golden touch
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by allah » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:24 pm

Paranoia!

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by JR » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:50 pm

40oz of Justice has a glued on hold and lots of glue supporting the larger holds.

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Oct 27, 2010 11:18 pm

keep it coming..makes me feel better.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by bcombs » Wed Oct 27, 2010 11:25 pm

Doesn't Banshee at Solarium have some glue? Pile Driver is of course the obvious one.

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by dustonian » Thu Oct 28, 2010 8:37 am

Banshee, really?!? No way....

did you ever get your draws back?

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by bcombs » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:07 am

Nope

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by dustonian » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:16 am

:(

A-holes!!!

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by JR » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:40 am

Aviary has some glue. Cutthroat has a tad.

Gluing is more of a NRG thing.

I was climbing at the New once. Lowered off a climb that had no less than a dozen glued crimps where you are basically just crimping epoxy. I couldn't fathom the rational for such a thing. Another climber near-by assured me that without the glue there would be no route (it is here that I should note that this route was a 12c variation on an existing 12a route that didn't have glue). I replied "You are right. There might not be a 5.12 here if there was no glue..."

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by Andrew » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:46 am

I think I have climbed that route JR.


Yea, I can think of ten or so routes at the red with glue, most have already been mentioned.

Ethics Police is missing the hold but some of the glue is still there.

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by drifter » Thu Oct 28, 2010 9:58 am

The Madness

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by clif » Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:47 am

JR wrote:Aviary has some glue. Cutthroat has a tad.

Gluing is more of a NRG thing.

I was climbing at the New once. Lowered off a climb that had no less than a dozen glued crimps where you are basically just crimping epoxy. I couldn't fathom the rational for such a thing. Another climber near-by assured me that without the glue there would be no route (it is here that I should note that this route was a 12c variation on an existing 12a route that didn't have glue). I replied "You are right. There might not be a 5.12 here if there was no glue..."
sounds like Villian's Course
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by Rollo » Fri Oct 29, 2010 4:27 pm

Banshee and Ethics Police?... i kinda thought the line to cross for glueing holds back on would start in the 12 range. I was quite suprised when i saw the huge vein of epoxy on Seeker. I guess i thought that wasn't accepted practice at the red... seems like it's few and far between.

i say let em break.
And on the third day, God created the Red River Gorge(by conjecture), and he saw that it was good.

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