Hardest sport route for the grade

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pkananen
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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by pkananen » Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:01 pm

The G-Man 10c. Been on several 11a routes that I think are easier.

I think most of the 11b and 11c routes at de Bibliothek feel hard.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by pkananen » Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:03 pm

Severn Bore?

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by tbwilsonky » Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:08 pm

from my limited experience:

10a - Oompa
10c - G-Man
10d - Girls Gone Wild Woo!
11b - No Country for Old Men
11d - Collision Damage
haunted.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by bcombs » Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:49 pm

12b - The Verdict

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by dustonian » Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:51 pm

bcombs wrote:12b - The Verdict
easy for grade in my opinion... and I'm pretty weak sauce. Did you do the last bolt through a waterfall or sumpthin?

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by bcombs » Thu Nov 18, 2010 4:55 pm

I thought it was hard for the grade. Not as many rests as other 12b's on the wall like Rocketdog or Ale-8.

I think there are too many variables. Andrew thinks that Ethics Police is hard. I flashed it. What's up with that? I think it just fit me. Maybe Verdict did for you. I've heard more than one person say it's hard for the grade.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by dustonian » Thu Nov 18, 2010 5:03 pm

Yeah, it's weird. Musta been a fluke for me. Yesterday I was making Rocket Dog look like 5.13, so... WTF?!?

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by climb2core » Thu Nov 18, 2010 5:39 pm

pkananen wrote:Severn Bore?
Severn bore may be tough to onsite, but it isn't that hard of a climb once you figure out the beta. But I must have sat under that wave for 15 min trying to figure out how to grab that flake... finally moved my left toe down two inches and the wall stopped "pushing" me out. I think the grade is fair.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by redpointron » Thu Nov 18, 2010 7:08 pm

pkananen wrote:The G-Man 10c. Been on several 11a routes that I think are easier.
i took the day off since the g-man is home sick with a fever. this will make him smile.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by Barnacle Ben » Thu Nov 18, 2010 9:44 pm

+1 for Karmic Retribution at 10c. That thing was a mindfuck. Great line though.
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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by rdo'c » Thu Nov 18, 2010 11:46 pm

karmic retribution is a great line but I didn't think it was hard and I suck at slab. I'm putting in a vote for night moves. Damn that route! I thought Manifest Destiny was way easier. G-man is a tough one.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by p0bray01 » Fri Nov 19, 2010 8:36 am

climb2core wrote:Possum Lips.... it has been so long since I was on it, but I remember never wanting to get on it again.

Damn right. I thought that sucker was harder than HEYYELL
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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by Remy » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:22 am

Barnacle Ben wrote:+1 for Karmic Retribution at 10c. That thing was a mindfuck. Great line though.
Yeah, at it's grade, it's very tough. A very difficult read and onsight, didn't stick it first go. Funky but a good line all the same.

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by dustonian » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:26 am

Granite 10a tops (except the bolts are where you want them on KR).

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Re: Hardest sport route for the grade

Post by Barnacle Ben » Fri Nov 19, 2010 11:56 am

dustonian wrote:Granite 10a tops (except the bolts are where you want them on KR).
But isn't that kind of like saying 'if your aunt had a dick, she'd be your uncle'?

If the line were on real coarse granite, sure it'd be 10a. But if it were on alpine granite it'd be harder by a mile. Or like saying 'all the routes at the Red would be easy if they weren't so steep.' Well, they are steep, and they're not that easy. At least for me.
"But the motto was, never think you're that cool - you're still just climbing rocks...in the woods...with bugs...and everyone thinks you're crazy."

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