Beta for Bohica

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Ascanio
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:22 pm

Beta for Bohica

Post by Ascanio » Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:27 am

Attention all Spraylords:

If you have ever sent,been on, looked at, or just had a friend who once made some random comment about Bohica this is your chance to unleash the verbal floodgates deep within and give back to the climbing community- or at least one sucky member of it. Now before you mistake me for a 13 climber who actually has a chance in hell of sending this thing, I should point out that I am looking for a longterm proj that will keep me motivated to crank hard at the gym. Despite living way out west ie. LA, my plan is to get spanked at least five weeks a year in ALe 8 country. My strengths are super steep, body tensiony, hard power endurance moves for about 40-50 feet. I almost never project stuff (break out the umbrellas-last trip in the red I onsighted several 12a/b) and redpointed only one route out of over 100 (an 11 that I gaffed at the 2nd bolt), but have decided it's time to work some super hard, ultra memorable routes. I am much stronger now, and plan on RPing Hoofmaker, since it is close, five star, suits me perfectly, (and of course comes recommended as the most doable 13 in the Red- a perfect ego soother). If you don't have beta for this route please feel free to jack the thread with your own route recommendations given my paramaters. Being super ADHD (like everyone else in LA), chances are I will end up going back to my old onsight bingeing ways and hunt for easy targets and more suitable lines elsewhere. So if you have beta for Bohica, or any other mega classic 12c to 13a/b that would suit my style please, please, please spray away!!! Thanks so much in advance....Ascanio

toad857
Loser
Loser
Posts: 1691
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 12:31 pm

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by toad857 » Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:45 pm

beta: don't forget the 70m rope in california

Ascanio
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:22 pm

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by Ascanio » Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:20 am

Fo real.

aburgoon
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 82
Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 11:04 am

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by aburgoon » Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:31 am

Try the Jailhouse, it's closer.

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by pigsteak » Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:39 am

where is LA?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

Drew
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2010 4:41 pm

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by Drew » Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:47 am

Come on pig everybodys herad of Lower Alabama, i think theres a beach there or somthing.

dustonian
BANNED
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:46 am
Location: Lex/Zoe

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by dustonian » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:59 am

Maybe he means Ohio by "Ale8 country"...

Ascanio
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:22 pm

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by Ascanio » Sun Apr 03, 2011 2:07 pm

Yeah right, like I am so dumb that I don't know Ale8 is only legal in east Kentucky.

allah
Went Down On It
Posts: 1443
Joined: Tue Jan 14, 2003 12:10 am

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by allah » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:01 pm

Find another/Better 13a to get on!

THB
Official Nerd Notes Expert
Official Nerd Notes Expert
Posts: 273
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 8:26 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by THB » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:38 pm

You can get Ale8 in other states besides Kentucky... and there is nothing "legal" about it, or "illegal" for that matter...

shear
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 86
Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 6:51 am

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by shear » Mon Apr 11, 2011 11:05 am

...don't let the first move shut you down.

camhead
Poser
Poser
Posts: 304
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:14 pm
Location: The Other River Gorge

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by camhead » Mon Apr 18, 2011 7:27 am

I've not been on Bohica. I've heard from a few people that start is hard, badly bolted, and not that enjoyable. In the words of a friend of mine with a more diverse, difficult, and lengthy ticklist than 98% of this site, "it makes me want to quit climbing."

On a similar note, when the fuck did 40oz suddenly become the popular route? It used to never have anyone on it, but in the last two weeks it's been getting gangbanged. Saw someone (no names) on it last week, taking a 30 minute laydown rest RIGHT before going into hanging on every bolt. WTF?
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

JR
Official Route Quality and Grade Accuracy Analyst
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 2:18 pm

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by JR » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:17 am

BOHICA doesn't suck because of the start moves or the bolting....

40oz's is cool for the same reason Bohica isn't. 40oz goes to the top of the Madness Cave. Bohica just stops(Yes, Last of the Bohicans is as sweet as 40oz. Probably sweeter. No glue. O wait. Less glue.)

"Gangbang" ??? So 2010!!

The laydown rest is right before the physical crux of the route. So...(you figure it out)

I will give you 2 points for cross-spray though camhead. "You are friends with someone with a lengthy ticklist" Nice!!!

User avatar
pigsteak
The Crocodile Hunter
The Crocodile Hunter
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm
Location: Like Prince my name has now changed..please call me Piglovely.

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by pigsteak » Mon Apr 18, 2011 10:37 am

glue in the madness cave? wow.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

camhead
Poser
Poser
Posts: 304
Joined: Mon Feb 27, 2006 1:14 pm
Location: The Other River Gorge

Re: Beta for Bohica

Post by camhead » Mon Apr 18, 2011 4:58 pm

JR wrote:
I will give you 2 points for cross-spray though camhead. "You are friends with someone with a lengthy ticklist" Nice!!!
No, I'm friends with someone with a lengthy ticklist, who also thinks that BOHICA is overrated in quality as a much-ballyhooed climb.

Try to keep up.
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

Post Reply