Bolts that pull out?

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jonlong724
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Bolts that pull out?

Post by jonlong724 » Wed May 04, 2011 11:11 pm

I'm a new climber and I'm getting ready for my first trip down to RRG (also my first experience climbing outdoors). My biggest concern is bolts breaking or pulling out on a fall, since it's not something that I can really prepare for. I'll probably be climbing in the 5.7-5.10 range. Have bolts been an issue? Is it something I should be wary of?

Thanks!

bentley
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by bentley » Wed May 04, 2011 11:24 pm

The answer to your question is no

On a slightly different note good luck with this post cause your about to be raped over the coals! Be sure to double check your knot and make sure your belayer knows exactly what they are doing. The red is a great plAce and you will have a great time! Seriously.
Climbing is not free. Support your local climbing organization. Labor and money precious resources!

dustonian
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by dustonian » Wed May 04, 2011 11:26 pm

I thought they were supposed to come out so you could use them on the next route???











(just kidding. Do what Bentley says.)

jonlong724
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by jonlong724 » Wed May 04, 2011 11:33 pm

bentley wrote:The answer to your question is no

On a slightly different note good luck with this post cause your about to be raped over the coals! Be sure to double check your knot and make sure your belayer knows exactly what they are doing. The red is a great plAce and you will have a great time! Seriously.
Haha yeah, I'm on a lot of forums and this one is pretty high on the list with sarcastic answers. But there's a lot of great info here, so it's all worthwhile.

I'm so excited to be finally moving my climbing outdoors! I was recently down at RRG for some backpacking/camping and was blown away by the cliffs. I generally err on the side of being overly cautious, so my climbing partner and I have been practicing our lead climbing / belaying and making sure we communicate well. I'm still scared, though.

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by truello » Wed May 04, 2011 11:37 pm

It happens every once in a while you just have to shrug it off.

dustonian
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by dustonian » Thu May 05, 2011 12:07 am

It's worth pointing out that bolts WOULD "pull out" if not for the hard work of guys like Blake and Jeff over at team suck...check out the site at www.teamsuckclimbing.com and make a dough-nation--everyone that climbs in the Red should! Think of it as part of your "gym membership" fee to climb in such an amazing place (I say "part" because the rest of your "membership fee" should go to the RRGCC (www.rrgcc.org) and Muir Valley (www.muirvalley.com) to cover the operating costs of keeping these great places open to all of us!).

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by DHB » Thu May 05, 2011 12:57 am

jonlong724 wrote: I'm still scared, though.
Step 1: Grow a pair of nuts and stop being such a pussy.
Step 2: Get your knowledge 100% dialed in so that when you get all elvis on your first runout you can forget your name, but not how to climb smart.
Step 3: ???
Step 4: Profit!

But seriously, your first lead fall will probably be the scariest thing you've experienced in a while, even if your waist is only a foot above the bolt. If you have any questions or there's something that doesn't feel right, don't hesitate to ask the people next to you for their opinion. Some people will be dicks and act like you're an annoyance, but only because they don't realize that the only thing more annoying than a gymbie with questions is a gymbie whose questions are shrugged off and who then beaks their leg/back/face. And about Step 2: by asking if bolts pull out of the wall makes me think you still have some learning to do. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. WITH EVERYTHING. ALL THE TIME.

jonlong724
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by jonlong724 » Thu May 05, 2011 1:18 am

Thanks for the reassuring comments so far.

In response to the response above - of course I have more learning to do. I am new to this. I'm comfortable with climbing indoors, but climbing outdoors is a very different experience. I'm seeking information from all the resources I can: books, experienced friends, internet, and forums like this one.

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by GWG » Thu May 05, 2011 7:00 am

Since this is your first climbing trip to the gorge, I'd recommend hiring a guide. RRO is a great place to start. They are outstanding and can set you in the right direction right out of the gate. They'll be able to take you to some great routes, show you some of the finer points necessary for safely climbing outdoors, and make it an experience you'll never forget.

Good luck.

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by Andrew » Thu May 05, 2011 7:56 am

What climbing website have you been hanging out at that suggest that bolts pulling is a common thing?
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by heacocis » Thu May 05, 2011 8:41 am

This does suggest a good question though: does any one know of any recorded *properly placed* bolts in *good rock* that have pulled out? As far as I know, given these two conditions, there has never been a bolt that actually pulled out.
Wave Bolt- the best climbing bolt available! www.wavebolt.com

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by dustonian » Thu May 05, 2011 8:50 am

First bolt on Convicted. Rust + age + outward pull + hundreds/thousands (?) of static-ky whippers. I'm sure it was properly placed to begin with and the rock is fine. Plenty of old quarter-inchers on granite have failed after a couple of decades of corrosion... and technically speaking, they were properly placed to begin with & in good rock. That said, I have NEVER heard of a properly placed glue-in WAVE bolt failing!! ;)

To repeat...www.teamsuckclimbing.com.

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by Andrew » Thu May 05, 2011 9:33 am

heacocis wrote:This does suggest a good question though: does any one know of any recorded *properly placed* bolts in *good rock* that have pulled out? As far as I know, given these two conditions, there has never been a bolt that actually pulled out.
Is there really any "good rock" in KY
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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by sendit » Thu May 05, 2011 9:48 am

YHBT
all you haters die slow.

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Re: Bolts that pull out?

Post by tradotto » Thu May 05, 2011 10:02 am

Here is an example of what can happen if you don't know what the hell you are doing. Never lower or top rope with the rope through webbing.

I would suggest finding someone at your gym who knows what they are doing outside and bribing them with beer to come with you.
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