Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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ted
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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by ted » Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:51 pm

thats "man talk" right there.

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pigsteak
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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by pigsteak » Fri Jun 03, 2011 9:53 pm

why would people stick their hands in a crack when there is that beautiful face begging to be bolted right next to it? such a shame...
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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clif
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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by clif » Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:09 pm

what is the world coming to when such a righteous conservative forgets their history?

as Alexander the Great said to Ghengis Khan: "nice hat"
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by hypro » Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:44 pm

yea, the ones on INFECTIONS have been up for a long time. Probably 2 years i think maybe or more

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climb2core
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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by climb2core » Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:26 am

Remember this thread... funny how things come full circle. There are two problems:

1.) In the absence of steel PD's people leave up aluminum mank.


2.) Climbers get in over their head on fully equipped routes because of low commitment levels.

How do we fix these?

1.) Change the culture of leaving up project draws through education. Put up signs, pass out flyers, have the educated act as stewards of fixed gear ethics at the Red. Discuss what is a reasonable and safe time for project draws to be left up. All of us Inspect and remove unsafe gear.

2.) Reduce PD's on anything but the very steep climbs. Go with cleaning biners on the moderately steep and anchors only on anything else.

That is my ideas for a solution. What are yours?


Last thing... Funny how my personal climbing ethics of not wanting to monopolize a climb just because I can seem a little more reasonable now. Have to say it... I told you so. ;)

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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by graniteclimber » Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:29 pm

Well, you're wrong.

The Solarium is in Muir, and the Weber's have asked that the permas in Muir not be removed. Case closed.

But you are right in that a 2 hour wank on Super Best Friends is Super Lame.

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climb2core
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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by climb2core » Sun Oct 23, 2011 1:53 pm

Huh? What am I wrong about? In all of my posts I have always said

1) it is up to the land owner
2) fully equipped belong only on the very steep (unless land owner says otherwise... However I don't see the Webers having PDs put up on anything else in Muir)
3) Be respectful to your fellow climber

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clif
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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by clif » Sun Oct 23, 2011 2:31 pm

what is wrong with people? when someone says you're wrong, accept it, you're wrong.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by climb2core » Sun Oct 23, 2011 2:34 pm

clif wrote:what is wrong with people? when someone says you're wrong, accept it, you're wrong.
Good point Clif, you're wrong. ;)

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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by graniteclimber » Sun Oct 23, 2011 2:41 pm

[quote="climb2core"]
2) fully equipped belong only on the very steep (unless land owner says otherwise... However I don't see the Webers having PDs put up on anything else in Muir)

Air Ride is fully Equipped and there were a few on the steep part of Magnum Opus. Doesn't Midnight Surf have some PDs?

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Re: Perma Draws, Blessing or Curse?

Post by climb2core » Sun Oct 23, 2011 3:06 pm

graniteclimber wrote:
climb2core wrote: 2) fully equipped belong only on the very steep (unless land owner says otherwise... However I don't see the Webers having PDs put up on anything else in Muir)

Air Ride is fully Equipped and there were a few on the steep part of Magnum Opus. Doesn't Midnight Surf have some PDs?
ARE is steep, as is SBF and CB6 at the surf. Not sure about MO... It wasn't equipped last year when I was on it.

And as I also said, up to the land owner first and foremost... Which you also pointed out. So wtf are you pointing out more routes in MV w PDs?

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