More dropped climbers

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pigsteak
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More dropped climbers

Post by pigsteak » Wed Sep 14, 2011 11:25 pm

Heard that there were two more incidents involving sketchy belays and resulting decked climbers. Anyone know more?
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by krampus » Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:59 am

yeah, stupid kid clinched the gri gri because he wasn't sure if the climber needed slack or was falling, and in the other case, some stupid kid clinched the gri gri because the climber fell when he wasn't ready for it.
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by dustonian » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:08 am

Oh are these in addition to the ATC drop at the Lode and the botched clip at Dark Side? Stupid kids.

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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by caribe » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:17 am

krampus wrote:yeah, stupid kid clinched the gri gri because he wasn't sure if the climber needed slack or was falling, and in the other case, some stupid kid clinched the gri gri because the climber fell when he wasn't ready for it.
Cinched the Grigri or Grigried the Cinch? Are you saying the autoblock release was held open?

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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by stix » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:07 am

The accidents that I'm aware of didn't have anything to do with gri gri usage. The first was at the lode a few days ago. A climber from lex (taylor?) fell from around the last bolt on resurrection. His belayer, also from lex, (Corey?) was using an ATC and began to catch the fall normally and was lifted off the ground towards the first draw. He appeared to get spooked about hitting the draw/wall and let go of his brake hand well before any contact with anything occurred dropping himself and his climber. Both guys were climbing later that day!

Yesterday at the darkside: sean, who is living in the gorge right now, came off the wall at the second clip on the force with rope in his hand. I was indirect to a bolt on darth moll slightly above and to the left of him and had a clear view of the accident. Sean was visibly struggling to clip the bolt and fumbling the clip. He spent some time with clipping slack out. Eventually he shook himself right off the ledge both feet stand on to clip and barn doored slowly. It looked to me like he may have tried to let go of the slack at the last moment but it stayed in the crook of his thumb while his hand was still above his head. He fell in this position with maximum rope out and the belayer (adam) watched him deck about an arms reach away. Neither the climber nor the belayer spoke through the incident until sean hit the ground.

Sidenote: After lowering from the crux sequence from 3 to 4 on the force the first go sean assure adam that the first 2 bolts of the force were "casual". ya just can't make this shit up!
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by c-foot » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:10 am

Didn't the climber know you shouldn't fall until your belayer says he/she is ready? Please belay me with an ATC. Leave your fancy mechanical belay device home.

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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by stix » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:14 am

neither of these accidents had anything to do with a mechanical belay device.
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by Clevis Hitch » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:22 am

They never do.

The guy that let the climber deck because he was going to hit the wall is a pussy.
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by stix » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:24 am

i agree joe!
DO NOT let a guy named COREY from Lexington belay you!
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by clif » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:26 am

this thread is going well
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by Clevis Hitch » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:29 am

well shit man, what do you want? belayer means more than the guy who sprays about your send.
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by pawilkes » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:33 am

c-foot wrote:Didn't the climber know you shouldn't fall until your belayer says he/she is ready? Please belay me with an ATC. Leave your fancy mechanical belay device home.
are you an idiot? have you ever got extensive experience using a "fancy mechanical belay device"? any style belay device is only as good as the people using them. If you use a grigri correctly, which isn't that hard, they offer a few advantages that a tube style device simply doesn't. it sounds like the accident at the load wouldn't have happened if a grigri/sum/cinch/etc was in use.
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by climb2core » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:34 am

What about the other accident Clevis? Normally you are of the opinion that it is always the belayers fault... Just curious as to your take on that one. Not hating on ya.

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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by krampus » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:45 am

obviously my first post was entirely made up. I hate to hear that about sean, hope he is ok. The other guy at the load should have held on, total belayer screw up.
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Re: More dropped climbers

Post by stix » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:51 am

hey folks....WAKE the FUCK UP! what the fuck does it matter what joe (this is not an attack on you joe...my guess is we'd end up on the same page on this) thinks. neither of these accidents had shit to do with the device (though a mechanical assist device may have prevented the one or res.) put the blame where it belongs.....on the people. usually it's on the belayer...sometimes it's on the climber. COREY (do not share a rope with this person) tried his best to kill his climber and sean got stuck in a situation above his experience level and didn't handle it appropriately. An A+++ belay keeps him off the ground and got a C- belay at best. With that said, Sean had several chances to get himself out of that mess before he ever left the wall.
"Most men lead lives of quiet desperation." Thoreau

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