Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

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One-Fall
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Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by One-Fall » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:31 pm

If you had the right partners, training protocols, and adequate facilities, given enough time can everyone climb 5.14?
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by climb2core » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:36 pm

I think only people that can climb 5.14 can answer that.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by patho » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:40 pm

I think that a certain amount of genetic predisposition kicks in somewhere in the 13s.

No matter the amount of training, someone with a natural barrel chest and a -5 ape index will never climb 5.14

Just an example.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by ynp1 » Mon Nov 28, 2011 9:49 pm

I think most would say that everybody could climb 5.12. I think that most people could make it to 5.13, if all they had to do is train and do not have to worry about money and other life issues... But, to make it to the 5.14 level, I would think you would need some good genetics and other natural talent.

It is kind of like wondering if everybody could make the Olympics in the 100 meter dash? I am sure there is a time that most can make with a lot of commitment, but I think the ones that make the Olympics, have to thanks genetics for some of their success.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by SCIN » Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:32 pm

I think most 5.13 climbers could work the shit out of a 5.14 line for months or years on end and bag it eventually especially if it's a fitness route without insane boulder problems. However I don't think every 5.13 climber that climbs a 5.14 can become a solid 5.14 climber like Adam that consistently sends insane routes with wicked hard moves. That takes some mutant strength/talent/technique that I don't feel is trainable.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by ynp1 » Mon Nov 28, 2011 10:58 pm

Agreed.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by rjtrials » Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:39 am

patho wrote:I think that a certain amount of genetic predisposition kicks in somewhere in the 13s.

No matter the amount of training, someone with a natural barrel chest and a -5 ape index will never climb 5.14

Just an example.
Tim Deroehn has climbed 514. he is small of stature with T-Rex arms...

I think anybody can climb 514, provided that "anybody" is decently young (or their body is used to lots of climbing) and they want it more than ANYTHING else in their life.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by Meadows » Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:55 am

What is decently young to you? Tim isn't (by my definition), although he looks really young.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by rjtrials » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:00 am

i think it has more to do with how ready your body is to put stress on it over an extended period of time. a 25 year old with little athletic background would be "older" in this case than someone in their thirties who had been climbing for years.

but for the sake of an argument, i think anybody below 40-ish, that already knows how to climb 513, can with the time and training, bump it to the next grade. after 40, it would definately still be possible, just more difficult....
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by Andrew » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:07 am

Nearly anyone can climb 5.14 given enough time and training. The more I climb harder (at least for me) routes the more I realize that they are actually not that hard and that any person should be able to hold the holds. This is especially true at the red.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by heavyc » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:33 am

Andrew, you have forgot how far you have come from when you started and you don't realize that you (thanks to your dad) have some pretty great athletic genetic potential going for you (He was a division one track athlete for those of you who don't know his dad,), I don't believe anyone can climb 5.14, I agree that a good percentage of those that made it to 5.13 if they had the right coaching (usually from themselves) the time and the resources that they probably could tick off a 5.14, but there are a ton of climbers out there who will never get to 5.13, as for the ape index I don't think anyone has ever correlated a positive ape index with being a good climber, Adam Ondra has a negative index, I have a +4" index (and I suck), I do think that what keeps most climbers a long ways from getting close to their potential is not genetics but poor self coaching and lack of a commitment to getting better

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by shear » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:47 am

I can't wait to tell Timmy he's the subject of "over-the-hill" crushers.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by climb2core » Tue Nov 29, 2011 9:55 am

How many of you people posting have been on at least, oh say half a dozen 5.14's? If so, you may have some idea of what it would take to climb 5.14. But for me, it is just some arbitrary number. I have no idea how 5.14 or 5.15 would feel and hence have no idea how possible it is to achieve.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by allah » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:12 am

If mike Doyle can climb 5.14 then anyone can

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by climb2core » Tue Nov 29, 2011 10:24 am

allah wrote:If I can climb 5.14 then anyone can
Good point.

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