Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby aburgoon » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:41 pm

climb2core wrote:Historical perspective on progression of climbing...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_rock_climbing

1952 5.10
1954 5.11
1955 5.12
1977 5.13
1985 5.14
2001 5.15a


Hmm... except there are 5.11s in Saxony that were put up in the 1920s and Alex Huber did 5.15 in the mid-90s.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby pigsteak » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:47 pm

emilyharrington's blog post talks about how David graham nevers trains, and she is all about training..isn't that proof for differing ability levels, and what it takes to get there?
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby aburgoon » Wed Nov 30, 2011 10:01 pm

Who needs to train when you can afford to spend your whole life at the best venues in the world?
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby SCIN » Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:04 am

Are the 14s in the Red really so good that we should attempt them over and over and over until we succeed? Are they as good as Dracula or Jim's Dihedral? Is clipping the chains equivalent to a heroine dose? If the grade is so achievable then why waste time with it and instead bang out 50 other lines with the power and stamina we trained for? Are 50 crack rocks 10 times better than a single hit of heroine?
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby dustonian » Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:08 am

I agree.

Truly "climbing" whatever grade means onsighting it... everything else reeks of elderly ball sweat and desperation. And if you must train to excel or give climbing some semblance of meaning, please do so quietly and in private. The rest of us are trying to have fun & you're making us look like a bunch of uptight jock types.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby 512OW » Thu Dec 01, 2011 1:27 am

I haven't climbed 14a, but I will. It's not an if, it's a when. I have yet to find a plateau that doesn't have a somewhat obvious bypass. But the first step is always going to be believing. If you don't have that, forget it.

As far as not having enough time to commit to training, I'm gonna call bullshit on 99% of people. Training smart is far better than training more hours, and training smart can happen in as little as 3 or 4 hours a week, which is at least what most of you spend on here. I'm 37, didn't start sport climbing until 32, and that was after a nearly 5 year break from climbing. I only get outside 4-6 days a month, but I've been able to see progression every year for the last 5. In my case age is hardly a limiting factor. I feel I have plenty of time to get to 14a. I train on average 6-8 hours a week, spread over 3 or 4 days. I have a full time career, a daughter, and too many hobbies to mention that take up an immense amount of time. Even while building a house for the last 6 months I've been able to maintain my fitness. Saying that you just don't have the time is bullshit. You don't have the desire.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby pigsteak » Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:25 am

spot on kris...for me, there is no desire for that grade. but I do root for those who desire it and actually do something to get there.

as dustin posits, I indeed reek of elderly ball sweat. and that is just my feet.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby climb2core » Thu Dec 01, 2011 9:57 am

dustonian wrote:I agree.

Truly "climbing" whatever grade means onsighting it... everything else reeks of elderly ball sweat and desperation. And if you must train to excel or give climbing some semblance of meaning, please do so quietly and in private. The rest of us are trying to have fun & you're making us look like a bunch of uptight jock types.




The beauty of climbing is that we can all take away from it what we want.

If it is training and climbing to a personal best (ie chasing grades), great.
Maybe it is doing as many beautiful lines as possible.
For others, it is the fun of just being outside with friends.

Whatever, it is all good. What I don't get is why people get this attitude that what ever "their reason" for climbing is, is the better one. No need to go around putting other people's motives for climbing down, unless you are insecure about yours.
Last edited by climb2core on Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby kafish2 » Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:51 am

I don't think anyone is arguing that the merits of climbing 5.14 are greater. It was a simple question, is it possible to achieve the 5.14 grade for those that are not genetically gifted. The answer to that is yes. It is on all of us personally to decide whether or not it is worth the effort. All I am saying is lets be honest here and admit that if we are not climbing that level, or at least continually progressing at whatever level we are at, then that is a personal choice or a training failure that could be fixed. Nothing is wrong with not climbing 5.14 or even shooting for that goal. Just be honest with yourself and stand by the decision you make that prevent you from getting there. That could be the joy of route development (way harder than any climb I have done), the joy of keeping climbing as loose and free flowing as you need it to be for you, the joy other activities give you, or if you are like me, the joy you get from flapping your chops at the gym more than training at the gym. Unless you are seriously injured or handicapped it is a choice, not genetics.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby SCIN » Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:58 am

Definitely not putting it down here Climb2Core. Just thinking too deeply I guess.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby dustonian » Thu Dec 01, 2011 11:11 am

climb2core wrote: Whatever, it is all good. What I don't get is why people get this attitude that what ever "their reason" for climbing is, is the better one. No need to go around putting other people's motives for climbing down, unless you are insecure about yours.


dude that is like, so deep.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby climb2core » Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:10 pm

dustonian wrote:
climb2core wrote: Whatever, it is all good. What I don't get is why people get this attitude that what ever "their reason" for climbing is, is the better one. No need to go around putting other people's motives for climbing down, unless you are insecure about yours.


dude that is like, so deep.



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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby dustonian » Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:12 pm

right on, "brah"
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby tbwilsonky » Thu Dec 01, 2011 7:59 pm

my mind just exploded.
haunted.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Postby dustonian » Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:19 pm

That was just a few neurons farting at the same time.
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