Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

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Shamis
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by Shamis » Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:30 pm

I did run into a chunky young chick at the gym the other day who was giving me pointers on the v8 I was attempting. She had the body of a milf porn star...so i guess anything is possible.

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Clevis Hitch
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by Clevis Hitch » Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:33 pm

Basically it boils down to this...If you read this you will never climb 5.14.


The reason you ask? Because you are reading this instead of climbing.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by ynp1 » Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:22 pm

I am still on the side of, no.

But I did read, Fall of the Phantom Lord, by Andrew toddhunter. The book is about Dan Osman. Dan O talks about how he was not naturally talented as a climber, and it took him 6 years to climb 5.12... And he did in the end reach 5.14.

I think he was more naturally talented then he perceived, and I would think that many of us are...

Can every body climb 5.15? Because in 1980, I would guess that everybody would say no to the 5.14 question, and in 15 years what are people going to be asking?
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:25 pm

Louisville just got named the 8th fattest city in the US...methinks that this Hester's crew is more an anomaly than they think.

be realistic is not akin to being pessimistic.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by kafish2 » Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:38 pm

Being fat is not a hurdle that cannot be overcome by the average person. Excepting a few that suffer from medical issues being overweight is a life choice. This is not the product of genetics here, but of life choices. While the climbers at hesters are not average compared to the general population, that can be said of anyone that is active, it is still hard to believe that there is a gym with 100% of its population being genetic anamolies.

As I understand it, the question Lee is asking is not weather the average person can everyone climb 5.14 right now... He seems to be asking do we all have the potential to reach that level.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by kafish2 » Wed Nov 30, 2011 6:48 pm

I also do not know of any 5.14 climber that thinks that what they are doing is a product of genetics. I do not see too many people saying, "yeah I was just a natural bad ass, a genetic mix you cannot hope to match." My guess most of them, if asked would say it took a lot of time and hard work and it was well earned. Perhaps setting yourself up for failure by declaring a upper limit to your ability is a limiting factor. Maybe a lack of willingness to learn from these individuals is the biggest set back in not achieving your goals. How many people have taken the advice offered up by Eric Horst, Mike Doyle, O-dub and the Power Company, Dave MacLeod etc... to heart and really did what they say and have found a plateu they cannot pass. I bet if you say yes to this a consult with Kris would correct your perception really quickly. Go on and hire Kris and let him show you where you are not hitting on all cylinders.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by nik » Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:09 pm

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Last edited by nik on Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Shamis
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by Shamis » Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:11 pm

I think the biggest issue for normal people is the amount of time it will take to get there. A naturally gifted climber might do 5.14 in his first 2-4 years of climbing. That is probably coupled with consistent workouts 3-4 times a week, 10-11 months out of the year.

For the 'normal' people it probably takes 2-4 times as long. And that number grows much bigger with the inevitable training gaps that show up in a normal lifetime. So you have to take out a lot of time for injuries/work crunches/family stuff etc. And those gaps take huge dents out of your progress. The longer it takes you to reach your goals, the more interruptions there will be. So I think in the end something that may take a gifted climber 3 years to do, may take a normal person 20 years to do. This may bring the 'normal' climber into the upper 5.13 range, but now he's got to take the big step up to 5.14 and he's probably nearly 40 at this point. Maybe another 5-10 years of training/climbing? Now he's 50. GG.

If you climb 5.14 and it took you less than 5 years to do it, and you don't think genetics had anything to do with it, you're probably an asshole.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by kafish2 » Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:19 pm

Shamis wrote:For the 'normal' people it probably takes 2-4 times as long. And that number grows much bigger with the inevitable training gaps that show up in a normal lifetime. So you have to take out a lot of time for injuries/work crunches/family stuff etc. And those gaps take huge dents out of your progress. The longer it takes you to reach your goals, the more interruptions there will be. So I think in the end something that may take a gifted climber 3 years to do, may take a normal person 20 years to do. This may bring the 'normal' climber into the upper 5.13 range, but now he's got to take the big step up to 5.14 and he's probably nearly 40 at this point. Maybe another 5-10 years of training/climbing? Now he's 50. GG.
I agree with all this but again these are lifestyle choices. If the average person wants to climb 5.14 it will take time and sacrifice, of which most are unwilling to make. Doesn't mean they couldn't just that they wouldn't which is probably the right choice. Family, success and fulfillment in work, a close community of friends are all things I would see as being more important that climbing 5.14 and actually provide a lot more happiness.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Nov 30, 2011 7:46 pm

kyle: you bring up a good point. I don't think Kris has climbed 5.14 yet he trains like a fiend. When I see these guys busting a nut and staying focused, it just seems like "not worth it" for such a small improvement. Let's say for a second that Kris finally plateaus at 13d, would that convince you that perhaps, just perhaps there is something else at work in the equation? but most of us, myself included, fall back on switching up the routine, there's always next year, maybe try a bit harder, etc. we live in the future at all times to keep that dream alive. hope does spring eternal, but I can assure you that there are thousands of climbers with crushed dreams that have nothing to do with just believing it into existence. and many are not lazy either.

then as spicey jackson would say, it really does come down to being with friends and having a good time.
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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by kafish2 » Wed Nov 30, 2011 8:16 pm

Russ is a wise man... Kris will climb 5.14 no problem so long as he stays interested in that goal... If in some alternate dimension Kris does not reach that goal my advice to him will be the same I give Lee every time I see him. Come to Hesters! If that failed then I would admit defeat on this point haha.

I know I probably sound a bit of a mad man on here but I think there are two reasons for that. 1. I honestly feel that the biggest limiting factor in my personal climbing was my psyching myself up on grades and limiting myself. 2. I really do think that climbing at Hesters and the crew there is the best thing I, orany of the other guys there, have done for my climbing and I really want to share that with others (I am in no way sponsered, work for, or have ownership from hesters... just another paying customer). Just trying to light a fire under some asses here.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by One-Fall » Wed Nov 30, 2011 8:47 pm

Kipp, if Kris stalls at 13d, he will anaylze the"whys", formulate a plan that targets the exposed weakness, train said weakness away, and then send. Then he will help teach all of us how to do it.

Kyle, consider the fire lit.
Can't we all just get along?

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by der uber » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:04 pm

Lee, I would say yes. But as other have established, it will take more work for some. Now, the thing is, there are a broad range of reasons why people climb, ranging from the recreational 'set up toprope on 5.8 all day' to free soloing hard multipitch lines. A lot of people don't have it in their heads to want to climb 5.14 because they think it's some unnatainable level. Others are solely focus on the number but will failin the process. And many others scenarios in between. It doesn't mean that it wasn't possible for them. The great thing about climbing is you can enjoy it how you like.

There more factors than physical genetic build. Ability to learn movement and technique, desire and disicpline to train, are as important as anything. There's no doubt that people have natural strengths and weaknesses. I also know that with determination and hard work, limits don't mean much.

I was reading on Moon climbing's site about their hangboard workout. I'm not going to look it up to directly quote but basically there was instruction to the effect of "if you can only hang off the crimps for a secoond or two, fine." because the next workout, you may hang for two or three, and soon you may get up to 9-10. The point is, as others have suggested, is that with the right focus and intensity you can greatly improve your performance.

Trick is, knowing how to get the right partners, training protocols, and facilities.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by Shamis » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:05 pm

Wait. So the guy who's training tips you guys keep pushing on this site doesn't climb 5.14? Surely that destroys any argument that normal people can train their way there.

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Re: Can Everyone Climb 5.14?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:33 pm

I think kyle has climbed 5.14....kyle? if not, have any of the hester's crew climbed that grade yet? I know they all warmup on 12s and send mid 13s like a switch hitter at a sausage factory.
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