How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

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tbwilsonky
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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by tbwilsonky » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:19 pm

twinkie? no way.
haunted.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by Yasmeen » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:31 pm

bcombs wrote:
Willy wrote:I think you're right about the quickest way being to train endurance especially since I drool over twinkie being my first twelve but I want to be climbing 5.12 consistently so I think a more well rounded approach might be better.
Jesus, there is another one: http://thegumbytwinkieexperiment.tripod.com/

My boy just sent Twinkie!!!
Daaaaaaaaaaaamn!!! Time to ghost ride the whip all the way back to the Shell station!
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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by tbwilsonky » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:43 pm

Yasmeen wrote:Daaaaaaaaaaaamn!!! Time to ghost ride the whip all the way back to the Shell station!
ha. you just dropped it like its hot.
haunted.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by clif » Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:30 pm

Reminder, when you climb at Muir Valley you sign a waiver that prohibits riding the whip a la ghosts.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by Monty » Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:09 pm

I am glad that someone asked this question. I have had the same question and that is my goal this year is to redpoint a 12. I have been training like crazy to get into better shape. 4 mile runs everyday, half way through Insanity, and then boulder in the garage 3 times a week. I know it is just a number but it seems like after you break into a grade, your head just seems to work better with other climbs of similar or lesser grades. I would really love for Hippocrite to be the one. It looks amazing.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by camhead » Fri Feb 24, 2012 2:43 pm

climb2core wrote: What is your crag list of the softest grades, to the hardest?

Example:

Softest to hardest...

Jacks Canyon, Az
RRG
Red Rocks
NRG
Rifle
Heh, I haven't been to all those areas, but from my experience, here is the true rundown of climbing grades, from softest to hardest:

Potrero 5.10
Maple 12a
Solarium 12b
Red Rocks 12a
Indian Creek 11a
Squamish 10a
Endless Wall 5.10
Gunks 5.9
Tensleep 12b
Smith Rock 5.10
Tuolomne 5.11
North Carolina 9+
North Carolina 11+
Madness Cave 5.13
Endless Wall 5.12c
Vedauwoo 5.11 OW
Seneca 5.8
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by Andrew » Fri Feb 24, 2012 3:00 pm

Thats a good list
Living the dream

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by milspecmark » Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:04 pm

Although som eof you say that you should not just care about the numbers etc. I would like to point out that if you can climb a 5.12 your climbing world opens up by a significant margin. The best routes in the Red are 5.12 and up, so I am striving for 5.12 for that reason alone.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by der uber » Fri Feb 24, 2012 5:05 pm

Best of luck to you Willy. Push yourself at bouldering, get in with a crew of motivated folks that have the same goals and/or are better than you, and work some tougher climbs outside. Don't worry too much about endurance, but don't ignore it. Keep bouldering and getting stronger and training at a higher intensity, and the endurance will work itself out if you are getting enough climbing in outside.

Start getting on 12a & b's and see how they feel. Left Flank has a few nice low end 12s as does Military, you should check them out. If you can't finish them or feel like you have no business working them then go get on harder 11s like Spirit Finders, The Infidel, Gold Rush. And keep training.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by clif » Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:57 pm

Willy-

are you a penguin?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by allah » Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:17 am

DUDE! Skip 5.12, 5.13 is way fuckin easier! Go to the lode all the 13a's there are easier than the 12a's. don't be a pussy and get to it! You'll be in the mags soon! If you need a list I can send you the right way. Good Luck the bigger the numbers the more friends you will have!!!!!!!

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by dustonian » Sat Feb 25, 2012 1:18 am

lol MIGHTY ALLAH does it again!!!

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by pawilkes » Sun Feb 26, 2012 11:52 am

It may have already been said but get to the point where you can do two or three 5.11a/b's in a day before you start chomping at 12s. Learning to climb smooth and efficient on easier routes is going to be more beneficial than thrashing and hang dogging up a 12 while you're "working" on it. plus thats not really climbing, its bouldering between bolts. I'm not trying to put you down for wanting to climb a 12, I recently had a similar goal that I was able to accomplish by climbing a lot of stuff 3 to 4 letter grades easier and developing the endurance, technique and movement reading skills necessary for the send.
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by JR » Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:26 pm

Willy wrote:I started climbing about 16 months ago now and I've been dedicated from the start. I hit the gym around three times a week, I've been to the Red more weekends than not since last spring, and my hardest send is 11a. I feel like 11c is well within my ability though as I've sent a few in the gym and all the 11a's I've done felt pretty easy. I'm really motivated to be climbing 5.12 in the near future. I'm curious how long it took for others to get to that level?
This may or may not help. But it has been my experience that climbers that are chasing numbers early in their climbing lives over estimate their trajectory or development because of "Grade Math"*. My Spidey senses started tingling when you said that you have only climbed up to 11a and you think that you can climb 11c. I am hearing that you actually climb in the mid 10 range. I am basing this on what I have witnessed many times.

So....What is the message here?? You may not be climbing 5.12 in the near future. The good news is that you are "dedicated" and "motivated" so you will reach your goals.

* Grade Math: When a new climber uses the difference between their first send and best send then divide by the months that they have climbed to come up with a time frame that they will be climbing better than you. For example, Willy here, initially climbed 5.8(at the gym) in his first 3 months then powered up to 5.11c(in the gym) in the subsequent 13 months. So we are looking at a nice neat 10 months of development and 10 grades(5.8, 5.9, 5.10a,b,c,d and 5.11a,b,c). And there you have it. Every month, Willy can expect to get one grade better. So, of course, Willy will be climbing 5.12 very soon. According to simple "Grade Math" Willy will be climbing Check your Grip on April 27th 2012. HIGH FIVE BROTHER!!!!! Up top, down low. Too slow!!!!

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by clif » Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:54 pm

which 11a's have you sent? and i'll offer an opinion but i think your age and weight are indicators too, plus, how many pullups could you do when you started and has it changed/much?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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