How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

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Willy
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How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by Willy » Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:46 pm

I started climbing about 16 months ago now and I've been dedicated from the start. I hit the gym around three times a week, I've been to the Red more weekends than not since last spring, and my hardest send is 11a. I feel like 11c is well within my ability though as I've sent a few in the gym and all the 11a's I've done felt pretty easy. I'm really motivated to be climbing 5.12 in the near future. I'm curious how long it took for others to get to that level?

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by Andrew » Thu Feb 23, 2012 3:56 pm

first week
Living the dream

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by stix » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:03 pm

don't stress willy. you will almost definitely redpoint 5.12 this season, especially if you seek out ones that are notoriously soft. these should be easy to find, they're usually the most popular ones. chances are you will continue to progress through the grades on the standard curve and be climbing 12+/13- soon enough. eventually, you'll plateau and when you see you aren't achieving a new grade on a regular basis you'll quit leaving plenty of time for more meaningful pursuits. hopefully i'm wrong and you will continue to enrich our climbing community with more number chasing drivel for decades to come, but my experience says otherwise.
"Most men lead lives of quiet desperation." Thoreau

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by toad857 » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:08 pm

Willy wrote:I'm curious how long it took for others to get to that level?
An appropriate timeline wouldn't be measured by days or months, but by obstacles overcome.

Accept that your barriers will be mental ones, and you'll send a dozen 5.12's in the time it takes most people to send a single fluffy one. Good luck.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by Willy » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:13 pm

Haha ok Andrew I'm assuming you essentially you just used you freakish height to clip the anchors from the ground then. Doesn't count.
Stix I'm not largely caught up on numbers I enjoy climbing more as a lifestyle activity than an athletic sport already. There are just so many sick looking routes out there I want to have the skill to try out. You failed to answer my question by the way.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by nik » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:18 pm

.
Last edited by nik on Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by krampus » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:26 pm

there is a certain comitment level required to climb a certain graid. the comitment does vary slightly from person to person but the principle stays the same. The time it takes to climb 5.12 is up to you. Once you reach the appropriate commitment to climbing that allows you to climb that level, then you will climb that level, simple as that.
It tooke me 5 years to climb 5.12 because I never trained and always just played around, this got me to the harder 5.10's. Two weeks after I upped my level of commitment, I passed through the 11's and hit the 12 mark, I have not progressed since.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by stix » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:35 pm

Willy wrote:
Stix I'm not largely caught up on numbers I enjoy climbing more as a lifestyle activity than an athletic sport already.
that's funny b/c one of your first posts in this climbing forum is called "i want to climb 5.12 soooooo bad"

to answer your question though, i never made it to 5.12. after about 15 yrs of practicing my "lifestyle activity" i progressed to leading old school 9+. i never had the natural talent or the commitment to pursue climbing as an "athletic sport" to break through. i got frustrated and quit a few yrs back. i still love going to the cliff and enjoying the company of the climbers though. they are all just so "siked" i can't help but get caught up in the fun!
"Most men lead lives of quiet desperation." Thoreau

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by EricDorsey » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:42 pm

Willy wrote:I feel like 11c is well within my ability though as I've sent a few in the gym
I find gym climbs so subjective, even from gym to gym, that I don't know how you can correlate them to outdoor grades. Great to be sending hard indoors but 11c in the gym is not the same as 11c outdoors as I'm sure you know.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by bcombs » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:54 pm

4 years, but I was mostly out of shape and just fucking around for the first 2. Once I realized what it would take to climb even a single 12a, I changed the way I trained and mentally prepared for climbing. It wasn't long after that I started cruising through 5.11 and sent a 5.12. I sent that thing at the Playground that is now 11d pretty early on in that two year span, but I don't count that. It's a one move wonder at 11d and could probably stand to be downgraded again.

Depending on your strengths you should be able to find something that suits you. If you are a good boulderer do Hippocrite. If you have some endurance go do chainsaw or check your grip. If you just want to tick one, maybe Immaculate Deception, but don't expect a ton of kudos for it. :)

I'm on my way back from a relatively serious back injury and I'm pretty much in your boat. I took over a year off to heal and I'm getting back to 5.12. I feel like I've heard this record before.

Good luck.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by clif » Thu Feb 23, 2012 4:59 pm

i'm moving towards the belly dancing gypsies these days but the days in the desert, clouded tints and thousand starry nights of flying freefall. nothing to see, hear? keep moving-
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by whoneedsfeet » Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:23 pm

Andrew wrote:first week
He meant on lead Andrew not aiding/assisted top-rope jeez
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by climb2core » Thu Feb 23, 2012 5:30 pm

Your ability to climb 5.12 will depend on how hard you try while you climb and train. If you try to hang with the guys that climb 5.12 in your gym and do that consistently you will hit the grade faster. How hard do you push yourself? Do you leave the gym or the crag exhausted each time? How fit/fat are you? Do you have a good lead head? The quickest way to send 5.12 in the Red is to work on endurance. If you can boulder V1 and just hang on long enough, you can send. Practice shaking on jugs and doing laps in the gym.

I am fat (ask Dustin) and I came back to climbing after an 8 yr hiatus and it took me 6 months to send a 12a. However, it took me another year to become consistent at the grade. '

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by caribe » Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:13 pm

Willy wrote: I'm really motivated to be climbing 5.12 in the near future. I'm curious how long it took for others to get to that level?
If you rush it you will get injured. I am talking about recurring nagging tendon/ ligament - based injuries at the elbows, shoulders and fingers. The connective tissue develops much slower than the musculature. For example you are looking at ~4 months minimum to fully recover from a pulley rupture or a sprained ankle. Take a focused approach to training lockoff, and contact strength and enduro in the tendon and ligaments; these are the points of failure. Typically the average beginner sees marked improvement in the first 6 months due to the combination of connective tissue and skill development.

Chasing numbers is pretty silly though. Listen to Stix. Are you climbing hard to challenge yourself or to feed your ego? The basic philosophy at the heart of his question can't be so easily dodged. Go back and read his post. Would you feel better about sending an easy 5.12a versus an engaging 5.11c? What is your motivation? There are some awesome 5.11s in the Red.

To keep myself as honest as possible, I tend not to move on to the higher grade route at crag until I have climbed the lower grade routes. I can afford this policy because I live near-by. This is not my policy in general when I visit other venues.

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Re: How long was it before you sent your first 5.12?

Post by graniteclimber » Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:39 pm

A few seasons for me. At a place with pillow soft grades like the red, a year is probably typical for someone who gets after it.

Set goals, try hard, chase a number once it a while but don't get hung up on it. Plenty of guys do... and they are usually pretty lame.

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