Fail

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MarkM
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Fail

Post by MarkM » Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:49 am

So I just thought I would share today's failure at Muir Valley. We decided to check out Sunbeam Buttress today for our first wall. Did a little warm up and started up Moonshine which looked like a fairly doable 10a. Busted through the first moves to the roof, and made my way up to what must be the "interesting finish" in the guidebook. After climbing almost up to the 4th or 5th bolt I took a pretty nasty fall. Then repetitively failed on this move to get the second to last bolt clipped. After failing till I could no longer feel my hands I decided to use my bail beaner to rap off the last bolt I was able to reach. We tried leading the route a couple more times with no success, needless to say I left a crappy old locking purple beaner up there. So if anyone gets up to the 4th/5th bolt of moonshine and wonder whose locking beaner, now you know!

Anyways I had a great day at the Red today and plan to be back a couple times a month as long as weather permits!!!

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clif
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Re: Fail

Post by clif » Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:04 am

that's my kind of spray.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Fail

Post by dustonian » Thu Mar 08, 2012 10:30 am

damn beaners, taking over this state

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der uber
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Re: Fail

Post by der uber » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:05 am

That's what I call street cred. [knucks]

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Re: Fail

Post by Cleveland » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:28 am

Hardest 10a in the red IMO. Just ask bcombs :mrgreen:! Also didn't this route get upgraded from 9+?
"Do it"

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Re: Fail

Post by bcombs » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:32 am

Cleveland wrote:Hardest 10a in the red IMO. Just ask bcombs :mrgreen:! Also didn't this route get upgraded from 9+?
Haha, I was trying to remember if this was the one we got on or not. Yeah, that was some shenanigans. :lol:

I don't remember what was interesting about the finish, just me chuffing up there for the end of the day send!

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Re: Fail

Post by Syphur » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:53 am

To avoid the usual hazing one would receive for such action and post you are required to buy your way out of this one. There is a little box by the parking lot. Next time you visit Muir put a $10 in it.

Thanks.

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Re: Fail

Post by dustonian » Thu Mar 08, 2012 11:58 am

Good point... one can also buy their way out of shame & bumbliness by setting up a recurring donation at www.friendsofmuirvalley.org. Worked for me.

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Re: Fail

Post by Cleveland » Thu Mar 08, 2012 12:29 pm

dustonian wrote:Good point... one can also buy their way out of shame & bumbliness by setting up a recurring donation at http://www.friendsofmuirvalley.org. Worked for me.
Let us also not forget that it makes your heart feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Another reason why you should donate is every time I come home from Muir and have dropped a donation in the box my wife's panties magically fall off and I donate to another box.
"Do it"

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Re: Fail

Post by TradMike » Thu Mar 08, 2012 1:44 pm

It is not a safe practice to rappel off one bolt. If it falls out you are dead.

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Re: Fail

Post by climb2core » Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:26 pm

TradMike wrote:It is not a safe practice to rappel off one bolt. If it falls out you are dead.
That is the ultimate fail.

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Re: Fail

Post by Spikeddem » Thu Mar 08, 2012 2:57 pm

TradMike wrote:It is not a safe practice to rappel off one bolt. If it falls out you are dead.
Is it safe to fall on the first bolt? Second bolt? Hell, there are times where falling on the third or even fourth bolt would result in decking if the bolt blew. To think there's any redundancy for the majority of the bottom of the majority of sport climbs is silly...and those are bolts you're actually taking leader falls onto, not just rapping on. Just as you may find yourself climbing into situations that essentially take you off belay (usually between the first and second bolt, or while clipping the second), you also regularly do the same thing with redundancy (and probably with a much higher frequency).

Rapping off of one bolt isn't my favorite thing in the world--I think I've done it just once--but in a sport that is inherently dangerous it's hard to say how much more risk you're taking on when rapping on one bolt versus taking a leader fall onto the first or second bolts (second bolt is safer in the case where the first bolt has been placed high). Of course the main counterargument is that the consequences of decking from the first or second are likely less than the consequences of blowing a rap from 65' up...but that's pretty dependent on the landing zone.

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J-Ru
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Re: Fail

Post by J-Ru » Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:01 pm

TradMike wrote:It is not a safe practice to rappel off one bolt. If it falls out you are dead.
What is the preferred method of bailing mid (sport) route?

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Re: Fail

Post by Andrew » Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:04 pm

Stick clip up
Living the dream

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Re: Fail

Post by pigsteak » Thu Mar 08, 2012 3:06 pm

the bigger question and bigger fail is why a sport climbing wiener was not in possession of a stick clip....geesh. gumballs all around.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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