Fail

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MarkM
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Re: Fail

Post by MarkM » Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:20 pm

I am going to sew a huge loop into my chalk bag to haul my clip stick on each and every climb. I might invest in a carbon fiber stick and some aluminum alloy clips to save weight. Thanks!!!!

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Re: Fail

Post by Yasmeen » Fri Mar 09, 2012 2:24 pm

Andrew wrote: 1. stick clip up...
2. work the moves...
3. ????
4. Send
5. Spray about having sent first go
FTFY ;)
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Re: Fail

Post by Andrew » Fri Mar 09, 2012 3:02 pm

Yasmeen wrote:
Andrew wrote: 1. stick clip up...
2. work the moves...
3. ????
4. Send
5. Spray about having sent first go
FTFY ;)

Thanks for the fix
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Re: Fail

Post by Spikeddem » Fri Mar 09, 2012 5:59 pm

cliftongifford wrote:
J-Ru wrote:
cliftongifford wrote: OR you can get lowered off one bolt with a prussik on the end of the rope that's closest to the wall, with the other end attached to your belay loop. If the bolt your bailing off of fails, the next one below will catch you.
So that I understand correctly, we are talking about a single rope with a prussik to the climber on the portion of the rope between the belayer and the bolt from which the climber is being lowered. If the bolt failed, would a prussik with the a 6mm cordelette be strong enough to withstand the force of a fall to the next bolt (10ft. on 35ft. of rope)?
Absolutely, as long as the hitch is tied and seated properly. Cords from 6-8mm usually have a tensile strength from around 2,000lbs (8.9kn) to 4,000lbs (17.6kn), some even stronger. You'll break your back before your break your cord.
I'm not sure if you're intending to suggest that someone use a 7 or 8 mm cord for a prusik, but one common rule-of-thumb is that that prusik cord's diameter should be less two-thirds or less than the diameter of the rope it will be used on. Six millimeters is the max I'd probably carry for prusik purposes. Also, if a double fisherman's knot is used for the prusik cord, then the tensile strength will decrease by about 20% at the location of the knot. A prusik itself will slip around 1100 or 1200 lbs of force. If you've ever tied a prusik above your belay device for rapping--as opposed to below--then you may recall that it can get welded up pretty damn good--this may be another concern in the case of the lowering-bolt blowing.

Just not sure I dig the idea of taking a lead fall onto a prusik. I'd prefer to leave two biners on the wall over this prusik method, personally. Stick clipping was mentioned too, but considering that the belay is off if you're lowering rope to get the stick clip then you run into the same redundancy problem.

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Re: Fail

Post by Syphur » Fri Mar 09, 2012 7:00 pm

Don't sew that loop too big. You can make a stick clip from a foldable tent pole. Would probably be a little less to carry with you. Find directions online if you don't know how to make it.

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Re: Fail

Post by cliftongifford » Fri Mar 09, 2012 8:19 pm

Spikeddem wrote:I'm not sure if you're intending to suggest that someone use a 7 or 8 mm cord for a prusik...
There are plenty of rope manufacturers that make pre-sewn prusik loops out of 7 and 8mm cord. Bluewater doesn't even make one specifically designed for a prusik smaller than 6.5mm. 8mm would probably be a little big for a small diameter rope.
http://www.bluewaterropes.com/home/prod ... rodKey=350
http://www.rocknrescue.com/acatalog/PMI ... Loops.html
http://www.sterlingrope.com/product/456 ... _Sewn_Cord
Spikeddem wrote: ...Just not sure I dig the idea of taking a lead fall onto a prusik.
Petzl has a diagram that shows it much better than I can explain it. I'm not sure where to find it...

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Re: Fail

Post by whatahutch » Fri Mar 09, 2012 11:29 pm

Two bail beeners always makes me feel so much safer than any other method. Just think of it this way, it may not be balanced like a perfectly placed pair of anchors, but it at least has the redundancy that resembles an anchor. Two quick links. Two quick links.
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Re: Fail

Post by J-Ru » Sat Mar 10, 2012 10:29 am

cliftongifford wrote:Petzl has a diagram that shows it much better than I can explain it. I'm not sure where to find it...
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/en/activ ... g-2011.pdf

Image

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Re: Fail

Post by cliftongifford » Sun Mar 11, 2012 6:56 pm

Thanks. I guess that pretty much sums it up.

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Re: Fail

Post by JR » Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:39 pm

I would like to add something to the "acquiring the stick clipping mid route" scenario... (It is a bit embarrassing but I do this all the time.)

I too get a bit nervous about going into one bolt. Going off belay. Lowering a bight of rope and leaving yourself momentarily on one point of protection.

Just to be a little safer I go down one bolt. Go direct and then make a figure 8 on the bight, clip that to yourself. Making a giant sling, if you will, with the bolt above you. Then go off belay and then bring up the Sissy stick.

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Re: Fail

Post by EricDorsey » Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:16 am

whatahutch wrote:Two quick links. Two quick links.
Except don't use a quicklink to bail.... The next person on the route doesn't want to deal with removing your trash when it becomes rusted shut/overtightend. Sometimes you just gotta own up to getting in over your head and spend $4 on a biner so it doesn't become the next persons problem.

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Re: Fail

Post by Crankmas » Mon Mar 12, 2012 11:41 am

Thank you, please leave rock climbing hardware for a bail biner, you might consider that falling on a sport route is not an uncommon occurence either, this stuff is just amazing.

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Re: Fail

Post by Rollo » Thu Mar 29, 2012 7:44 pm

Andrew... stick-clipping up does not equal send... your numeric sequence is flawed.

Justin... good idea on the protection on stick-clip aquisition... but still for a ghey reason.

I stick clipped through something for the first time two weeks ago.. screw that. I'm going back to considering myself beat and surrender the booty!
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