Coffee Shop Talk

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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pigsteak
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Coffee Shop Talk

Post by pigsteak » Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:06 pm

So a buddy posted over on facebook about tape being put on hold at the bouldering area known as the coffee shop. he seemed genuinely concerned with what had transpired. My first inclination was to argue that removable climbing tape was far less intrusive than a crash pad eroding the base or a bolt putting a permanent scar on the rock.

But always the diplomat, I decided to see what others thought. IN your time as a climber, what is the one thing (or two) that has happened that truly had you thinking "really?" and swearing that our 'sport" had finally jumped the shark....

for me, it was when pre placed draws were still considered a red point. the second was when stick clipping the first bolt became "normal"..both seemed to be cheating the purity of why we climbed. now I do both.

I wonder if marking holds for a sick problem will become the norm.....
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Willy
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by Willy » Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:44 pm

Stick clipping keeps you from breaking your ankle. Calling it a redpoint when you already had the draws there doesn't matter if you sent the route because nobody cares if you hung the draws or not. Putting tape on an outdoor boulder problem just seems weird and pointless though. I don't understand. When I show up at left flank to find a huge group of people waiting in line to hang dog on every route there and blast electronic music I feel its all gone to shit. Also left my draws on hanging on wild yet tasty to give it a second go, walked away for fifteen minutes and came back to find some guy climbing on them, taking at every clip until the crux where you he tried for a long time then bailed. I was pissed, guy was obviously not capable of doing the route and only tried because someone else's draws were hanging.

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pigsteak
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by pigsteak » Sun Apr 08, 2012 3:53 pm

Thats my point willy. Only 15 years ago was it considered cheating to have draws up for a send. Now it is no big deal. Removable tape on outdoor holds seems mInor agaInst the backdrop of radios, drugs and alcohol, dogs, babies, smokers, hammocks and euros at the crag.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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ynp1
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by ynp1 » Sun Apr 08, 2012 4:06 pm

Tape on holds is minor compaired to drugs and alcohol. Drugs and alcohol have been part of climbing a lot longer then you have been. It pissesme off when I am not allowed to drink at a crag!

Tape on holds is pretty gay. But if they remove it before they leave, then I see no problem with that. Fucking gym climbers are fucking this game up!
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climb2core
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by climb2core » Sun Apr 08, 2012 5:33 pm

When there are more climbers at the crag/gym from last months group-on.

Jumped.

tH1e-swiN1e
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by tH1e-swiN1e » Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:00 pm

Willy wrote:Stick clipping keeps you from breaking your ankle. Calling it a redpoint when you already had the draws there doesn't matter if you sent the route because nobody cares if you hung the draws or not. Putting tape on an outdoor boulder problem just seems weird and pointless though. I don't understand. When I show up at left flank to find a huge group of people waiting in line to hang dog on every route there and blast electronic music I feel its all gone to shit. Also left my draws on hanging on wild yet tasty to give it a second go, walked away for fifteen minutes and came back to find some guy climbing on them, taking at every clip until the crux where you he tried for a long time then bailed. I was pissed, guy was obviously not capable of doing the route and only tried because someone else's draws were hanging.
I had always heard of this but never experienced it until this Sat at said crag. Showed up early to beat the groups to the warm ups. While on Maypop a group of 10 or so college kids show up and rigs their top rope gang bangs on the 8s and played music so loud I couldnt communicate with my partner. Not to mention 4 hammocks all of which were hung across the walking trail. When I said something about it I just received blank stares.

Tape outside. Lame.
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clif
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by clif » Sun Apr 08, 2012 10:14 pm

don't hate, i'm sure they laid up a couple of bucks at Muir on saturday.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by Cramsie » Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:44 pm


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Saxman
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by Saxman » Mon Apr 09, 2012 1:00 am

Ask them to turn their music off. If they refuse, turn it off and toss the device as far into the woods as you can.
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by lena_chita » Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:55 am

pigsteak wrote:So a buddy posted over on facebook about tape being put on hold at the bouldering area known as the coffee shop. he seemed genuinely concerned with what had transpired. My first inclination was to argue that removable climbing tape was far less intrusive than a crash pad eroding the base or a bolt putting a permanent scar on the rock.

But always the diplomat, I decided to see what others thought. IN your time as a climber, what is the one thing (or two) that has happened that truly had you thinking "really?" and swearing that our 'sport" had finally jumped the shark....

for me, it was when pre placed draws were still considered a red point. the second was when stick clipping the first bolt became "normal"..both seemed to be cheating the purity of why we climbed. now I do both.

I wonder if marking holds for a sick problem will become the norm.....
I thought marking holds for a sick (and not-so-sick) problems and routes already WAS a norm. It is just that it is usually done with climbing chalk and tickmarks-- and those are everywhere you look.

Marking the holds with removable tape seems way more complicated, but hey, if it is removed at the end of the day, it is a less invasive approach than tickmarks, or last-year's blue color playground chalk.

Of course the problem is that it WON'T get removed--not all of it, because people are too tired, too rushed at the end of the day, they apre planning to cme back "first thing tomorrow", or they just don't care. So in addition to cigarette butts, climbing tape, and corners of cliff bar wrappers you will have color tape blowing around in the wind and littering the base.

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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by tbwilsonky » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:42 am

wait a minute, was there some sort of optimism revival this spring? i thought we already decided everything related to climbing was lame; sans the part where we actually do some of it.
haunted.

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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by krampus » Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:25 pm

I'm not sure I understand what the issue is. I was waiting for some god forsaken atrocity at the crag (such as 10 gumbies with a boombox). Tape on a boulder problem outside???? (4 question marks) Who cares? Take it off if you don't like it, still probably better than a tick mark right?

If this is all that gets our panties in a wad this year, I suppose that we are lucky.
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by stix » Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:44 pm

you're right, who gives a fuck. i guess it was silly of me to be irritated by 37 pieces of tape on the rock and 74 tick marks on the same grips that the tape already marked. i suppose i can't change it so i might as well get over it. this is helpful because it's hard for me to get my index finger to land in the right dimple around the arete goin to the chains of dracula '11. i bet it'll be way easier when i put a 2ft long piece of tape coming around the blind arete so i know where to grab. PSYCHED! if anyone doesn't like it....just take it off.
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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by krampus » Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:32 pm

stix wrote:you're right, who gives a fuck. i guess it was silly of me to be irritated by 37 pieces of tape on the rock and 74 tick marks on the same grips that the tape already marked. i suppose i can't change it so i might as well get over it. this is helpful because it's hard for me to get my index finger to land in the right dimple around the arete goin to the chains of dracula '11. i bet it'll be way easier when i put a 2ft long piece of tape coming around the blind arete so i know where to grab. PSYCHED! if anyone doesn't like it....just take it off.
Ha, that's the full story I was hoping for. I honestly envisioned one or two pieces to mark key holds. Sounds like enough tape to annoy anyone, even the dult who put them up. I agree that it's incredibly asinine but I'm sure the guy thought he had a great idea that would have less impact than chalk, however more intrusive as the outdoor climber is not used to seeing tape. I do wish people would use common sense when being stupid, but that is far from the norm. I hope to god this does not become the standard, cus I will always help take them down when I see them. (maybe then, me and the guy who always throws the stick clip stick down the hill can eventually have a beer together, before I punch him in the nuts)
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

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Re: Coffee Shop Talk

Post by tbwilsonky » Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:47 pm

the really terrible god-forsaken awful thing of it is... someone was climbing at the Coffee Shop.
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