Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
- Full of (sh)It
- Posts: 928
- Joined: Fri Jun 20, 2003 11:26 am
- Location: Between a sport and a trad place.
More than just out of reach may be a dream... My project is 5.13, but I'm only a 5.11 climber. Fail. My project is 12b/c, but I barely get up 12a. Possible. Both will encompass training, learning, trying and failing - but only one of the scenarios will provide a rewarding finish... (unless you're just after the beat-down, or 10 years old, or wearing jeans...).
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
Hardcore projecting a single route is stupid unless you are climbing at the top level. Quit wasting your time and do routes that are in your league that you can at least get up in a reasonable amount of time without giving your belayer jock itch on the first go and send within three or four more goes. I see people who have sent one 12c in there lifetime and start working 13b's. Its stupid wasting all that time. I like what Pigsteak said about having a route wired taking you out of the flow of things. You become a better climbing by figuring out the moves onsight than by just having all the beta.
Willy,if you are doing only routes you are onsighting how are you becoming a better climber?Are you not just doing things already within your limit/ability? Would you not become a better climber by projecting something a bit harder than that?Something that required learning the moves and/or getting stronger,developing new techniques developing better endurance.....waste of time?
I feel you should still project within the parameters of a pyramid. for instance, you should project but one grade above your hardest send, provided you have at least 2 sends of that grade. For instance, if your hardest send is 12b, but you have a couple of them, find a 12c to project, not a 12d. If you only have 1 12b, and just a few 12a's project another 12b. If it goes in a couple days, well, then pick a 12c. Anyway, I know someone always multipich bouldering up 13's when their hardest send is 12b. Waste of time, and won't make you a better climber.
after getting my fat ass handed to me on every climb last 'weak' in the red i'm not sure i'm even a climber anymore. what's more, i could never get too excited about redpointing a single route. the idea always seems to want to avoid clear focus but seems firmly connected to the feeling of discovery, exploring my limit, even as it changes. i couldn't get on the roadside 10's to get a good gauge, but oompa, loompa, and girls gone wild seemed as hard as sex farm and infectious did a few years ago, and as fun to work on. some consolation in seeing happy trails is at least called 10d instead of 10b.
training is for people who care, i have a job.