A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

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Wonder1900
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A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Wonder1900 » Fri Apr 27, 2012 10:50 pm

So here's the thing: we're driving down to the Red in a couple of days for our annual pilgrimage.
Back where I live, nothing is really overhanging. It's crimpy and vertical and technical. Also, I hate the gym. So basically, I'm bringing zero endurance with me, and I ain't worth two bits on pinches and slopers either. It doesn't matter though, as we mostly go for the vacations and the beer and the pizza. We don't ever send anything. We go to a different area everyday and try all the 11s and 12- that look nice, and we never try a route twice.

This time around though, we thought it might be fun if we brought back one number, just one, for the hell of it. So basically, I'm looking for something laughably easy in the 12c to 13a range. I'd like suggestions of the least pumpy 12c to 13a you've been on. Something really short, or something with the crux at the bottom (preferably crimpy), or something that has real good rests (not jugs, huge ledges preferably). It doesn't matter if it's classic or not, it doesn't matter if it's ridiculously soft in the grade (actually the softer the better), I'm just interested in finding a route in that range that will require the least work for the number. The quicker we're done with it, the more beer we can drink the rest of the trip.

As you can imagine, we're not very serious climbers, so no need for any of that 'grades are meaningless' stuff.

Thanks!

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by der uber » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:49 am

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Caspian » Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:06 am

Wonder1900 wrote:As you can imagine, we're not very serious climbers
i guess 13a really is the new 12a.
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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Andrew » Sat Apr 28, 2012 8:17 am

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by heavyc » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:22 am

Belly of the beast jug rest before a short crux, Mirage is a longer route but it is crimpy in the crux and the crux is low on the route, So Long Mr. Petey lay down rest before a short crimpy crux

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by One-Fall » Sat Apr 28, 2012 10:43 am

Swahili Slang. Sounds exactly like what you are looking for and you most likely wont have to wait for it. Really good route.
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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by tutugirl » Sat Apr 28, 2012 11:16 am

If you hurry up before they change the tags you can do A Farewell to Arm while still miss tagged...in reality you be doing the Crucible... :)
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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Wonder1900 » Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:31 pm

Alright, so Swahili Slang looks like an awesome suggestion. Definitely adding that one to the ticklist.
I was also looking at shorter pitches, like Iron Lung in Muir, or Hang Over at Beer Trailor? Any of you with an opinion on either one? I guess Hang Over has the added appeal of being near the beer :)

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by toad857 » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:10 pm

Wild gift
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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Andrew » Sat Apr 28, 2012 5:40 pm

I thought Iron lung was hard, definitely 12c but hard. I thought Racer X was easy, Mirage, Swahili, reload, and Belly were all kind of easy. Bundle of Joy is kind of soft for 13a, and vert crimpy.
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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Cromper » Sun Apr 29, 2012 10:30 am

+1 for Reload and Belly Of the Beast

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Artsay » Sun Apr 29, 2012 1:04 pm

Hang Over is one of my all time favorite 12c's and there is a lay down rest before the crux if you want it. I wouldn't call it a "gimme" though. Jesus Wept may be good for what you're after. The beginning is steep and bouldery but then you have vert-ish climbing with breaks of good rests to a final boulder problem that's not too bad if you're rested. I second Mr. Petey and do not recommend Iron Lung unless you are 5.10 or taller and good at technical slab.
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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by Dhaulagiri » Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:50 am

Do people still consider Maizy Mae an actual rock climb?

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by JR » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:18 am

Drop the Hammer and Cruxifixion are vert routes that are in close proximity and in that grade range.

Orange Juice is pretty good.
Last edited by JR on Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:52 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Post by toad857 » Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:32 am

Dhaulagiri wrote:Do people still consider Maizy Mae an actual rock climb?
yeah it got longer and is now 13c

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