R/X sport routes

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Jeff
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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by Jeff » Fri May 18, 2012 10:17 am

I got it ground up as Kipp was setting up to rap in.
J/K.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by dustonian » Fri May 18, 2012 10:22 am

:lol: LOL!!

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by Jeff » Fri May 18, 2012 10:26 am

It was GU, but there were no pigs overhead.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by dustonian » Fri May 18, 2012 10:36 am

Good thing, you might have needed a helmet otherwise.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by climb2core » Fri May 18, 2012 10:52 am

What pure sport route(s) are notable in the Red for the longest run outs?

The top of Hellava Caucasian comes to mind, though pretty sure Blake had intended on another bolt there.

Geezers Go Sport is listed as a sport route (at least online) but recommends a cam for the run out.
Last edited by climb2core on Fri May 18, 2012 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by dustonian » Fri May 18, 2012 10:57 am

Resurrection, Flux Capacitor, and Tuna Town. Top of most routes in the Madness Cave, but only because people skip bolts.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by toad857 » Fri May 18, 2012 11:07 am

climb2core wrote:Geezers Go Sport is listed as a sport route (at least online) but recommends a cam for the run out.
that;s the one that came to my mind. that run out is huge, and with easy deck potential if you blow the clip.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by milspecmark » Fri May 18, 2012 11:22 am

If you really want to climb r / x routes, why not just free solo. The only reason I can see wanting to climb them is to get more adrenaline. Go free solo some 5.5s and have your fill.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by TradMike » Fri May 18, 2012 2:40 pm

There are a few R rated sport routes in Red Rocks that are not in any guidebook. There is one I looked at that is rated 5.9 with bolts spaced at a minimimum of 15ft for a total of 750ft of climbing. I think the only reason they did this was to try to hide the bolts from being seen.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by pigsteak » Fri May 18, 2012 2:45 pm

Jeff wrote:I got it ground up as Kipp was setting up to rap in.
J/K.
Not too far from the truth:)

If i recall i did onsight it right after belaying u. Everyone knows i never pay attention while belaying.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by rjackson » Fri May 18, 2012 2:51 pm

Ahhh, The Boulder Problem!

(Took me a couple of goes... stout for my weaksauce.)
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by rjackson » Fri May 18, 2012 2:53 pm

Isn't every bolted route R, if you don't know how to fall?
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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by rjackson » Fri May 18, 2012 2:56 pm

And X if you have a crappy belayer?

I read somewhere that climbing was a dangerous sport...
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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by clif » Fri May 18, 2012 6:10 pm

pigsteak, i think you finally caught your own tail.

because i share those dreams of having ponytails, painter's pants (and handlebar mustaches) come back into style i'll let you in. it's the aesthetics, doood.

i agree with the others that it the local ethics or doesn't make sense and the other rationales (Edit: In particular what c2c said), but i'll emphasize that it would seem more self absorbed to bolt a route to be r/x (not that i'm necessarily opposed to that and the guy (Tim Kemple?) who did, but i wouldn't necessarily be opposed to someone going back and adding bolts to that, cause that's what was satisfying/challenging to them.... the big part of the puzzle you seem to suggest one overlook is the rock itself, which i believe you want to bring yourself too, and not 'orchestrate' as an experience. (maybe you should pick up carving, or chia pets?) this is to me the bigger reason for trad climbing, it uses the natural line and features, and one's balls. yeah, mostly that's been said, but how could you have been confused???
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Jeff
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Re: R/X sport routes

Post by Jeff » Fri May 18, 2012 8:55 pm

Kipp and Russ, everything you said is true. Especially the part about not paying attention while belaying.
You have the skill so wired that your gripped climber doesn't even know they're not really on belay.
[edit] can't believe I've posted three times in a thread titled R/X sport climbs. Talk about lame.

Edited 16 times total
Last edited by Jeff on Fri May 18, 2012 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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