Lead Belay

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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krampus
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Re: Lead Belay

Post by krampus » Tue May 22, 2012 8:12 am

Josephine wrote:
caribe wrote:How good is the sex? If it's fantastic keep him and get a new climbing partner. If it's only mediocre, dump him altogether.
Good point caribe.
+1
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

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Re: Lead Belay

Post by Meadows » Tue May 22, 2012 4:59 pm

+1
Caribe is wise.

With your weight difference, he may not give you a soft catch even if he had the right stance and timing. Regardless, you're expressing a legitimate concern about safety and he's discounting that. Don't jump to the dump, but he does need to consider your safety.

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Re: Lead Belay

Post by Shamis » Tue May 22, 2012 5:43 pm

Sport climbers are pussies. Go do a long trad route sometime and you will realize that: it's common to not have sight of the climber for long periods of time, and you can't give a 'soft' catch when you're in a hanging belay.

Should a belayer watch you when possible? When near the ground, certainly the answer is yes, but after a bit it really doesn't matter much unless there are big ledges. And a soft catch is a nice luxury that isn't really necessary unless you're projecting stuff all day.

Tell him he has to watch you closely for the first 3 bolts, anything after that is fluff.

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Josephine
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Re: Lead Belay

Post by Josephine » Tue May 22, 2012 9:51 pm

Shamis wrote: Tell him he has to watch you closely for the first 3 bolts, anything after that is fluff.
I disagree. Having broken my wrist when I got a hard catch on falling at bolt #6, I will no longer climb with people who have that attitude.

I do agree that when trad climbing and multi-pitch there are many times when a soft catch would be impossible (or even watching your climber for that matter) - but she was asking about climbing in the Red and those instances are few and far between here.
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun

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clif
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Re: Lead Belay

Post by clif » Tue May 22, 2012 10:05 pm

i only toprope and would never take the risk of becoming emotionally involved with another person. it is a fallacy to believe that one person could ever care for another enough to stand up and attend to their condition in place of their own comfort. stick to yoga-
training is for people who care, i have a job.

EricDorsey
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Re: Lead Belay

Post by EricDorsey » Tue May 22, 2012 10:17 pm

Shamis wrote:Go do a long trad route sometime and you will realize that: it's common to not have sight of the climber for long periods of time, and you can't give a 'soft' catch when you're in a hanging belay.
1. That was probably the most odd use of punctuation I have seen.

2. Just because you sometimes cant see the climber you are belaying does not mean you should never bother to watch your climber.
Last edited by EricDorsey on Tue May 22, 2012 10:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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climb2core
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Re: Lead Belay

Post by climb2core » Tue May 22, 2012 10:53 pm

Take home message:

1.) Make sure you get a good belay before you get a good lay.
2.) Us sport pussies should not climb with Shamis.

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Re: Lead Belay

Post by Shamis » Tue May 22, 2012 11:16 pm

There are many ways to be a bad belayer, periodically looking down to rest your neck really isn't one of them. I suppose if you are deaf, or perhaps at a typical sport crag filled with barking dogs and blaring radios then you might have a case.

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Re: Lead Belay

Post by THB » Tue May 22, 2012 11:43 pm

Shamis wrote:Sport climbers are pussies. Go do a long trad route sometime and you will realize that: it's common to not have sight of the climber for long periods of time, and you can't give a 'soft' catch when you're in a hanging belay.

Should a belayer watch you when possible? When near the ground, certainly the answer is yes, but after a bit it really doesn't matter much unless there are big ledges. And a soft catch is a nice luxury that isn't really necessary unless you're projecting stuff all day.

Tell him he has to watch you closely for the first 3 bolts, anything after that is fluff.
So... what, you are climbing on the yellow spur, or rosy crucifixion, or the bastille crack?? no shit you don't need a soft catch on any of those routes, people don't fall on trad climbs. Duh!

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Re: Lead Belay

Post by steep4me » Wed May 23, 2012 4:22 pm

That's the most idiotic thing I have ever heard. Not to mention he is going to break your legs slamming you into the wall if you fall. If he can't muster up any more attention for belaying you, he should hit the road.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.

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steep4me
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Re: Lead Belay

Post by steep4me » Wed May 23, 2012 4:26 pm

Also, if this is how he belays, I am sure that he is lazy and all about himself in the sack as well. No reason to ask if the sex is good--not possible with this guy's attitude!
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.

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Re: Lead Belay

Post by EricDorsey » Wed May 23, 2012 4:56 pm

Shamis wrote:There are many ways to be a bad belayer, periodically looking down to rest your neck really isn't one of them.
Pretty huge difference between "periodically looking down to rest your neck" and lead belaying sitting down with your back to the wall not watching the climber at all, which is what she originally posted... You would be a good politician.

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