Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

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Jared
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Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by Jared » Wed Jul 11, 2012 4:11 pm

Was planning on coming down this weekend (7/13), weather looks like it has a 50% chance of thunderstorms for Friday through Sunday. As my group does not have too much experience coming down to the Red and can climb up to 5.9. We are only 4 or so hours away in Columbus and can easily come down another weekend.

Is this weekend looking good for climbing dry and low grade routes in the Red?

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by Josephine » Wed Jul 11, 2012 8:36 pm

The only dry routes under 5.10 will be at bruise brothers. Lowered expectations stays try but it's just 1 climb.
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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by Jared » Thu Jul 12, 2012 7:35 am

Thank you, exactly the information I wanted.

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by pawilkes » Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:26 am

there are a couple easy routes (5.5, 5.7) protected by a big overhang at Chica Bonita. might not be enough to entertain you for long
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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by climb2core » Thu Jul 12, 2012 8:42 am

Great Arch at Muir Valley also has a 5.9 and 5.10 that stay dry. Great Wall is across the valley (5.6-5.10 routes) and stays dry in a light rain. You could start there and then head across to the Great Arch if things got really wet.

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by Josephine » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:04 am

Great Arch seeps if it has rained at all. Great wall the belayer and your gear will get soaked :-(

I forgot to mention Dip Wall if you climb trad. has 2 5.7's that are next to each other that are really good and you won't have to deal with the crowds.

Pawilkes is right about Chica - I forgot about that one. Never climbed there in wet conditions so I don't know if they seep or not.
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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by climb2core » Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:22 am

Josephine wrote:Great Arch seeps if it has rained at all. Great wall the belayer and your gear will get soaked :-(

I forgot to mention Dip Wall if you climb trad. has 2 5.7's that are next to each other that are really good and you won't have to deal with the crowds.

Pawilkes is right about Chica - I forgot about that one. Never climbed there in wet conditions so I don't know if they seep or not.
Great Arch seeps much more in the spring after rain than in the summer. Most likely it would be passing showers vs sustained rain and I doubt it would get that wet. Even when it does seep, the routes are still climable an enjoyable.

Great wall is not a great option for pro-longed and heavy storms, but it would work just fine in a passing shower. Like I said, if it came in heavy then head across to Great Arch.

Chica is a good suggestion too. Oh, and Sunnyside has a short 5.7 and 5.9 that will stay dry in a downpour. Just tough to find climbs under 5.10 that stay dry.

I would suggest just going to the Lode and stick clipping your way up ;)

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by nik » Thu Jul 12, 2012 10:23 am

also, if they go the great arch/great wall route they could head over to shawnee shelter and try waterfall ballet (5.10a). i know he said up to 5.9, but if someone in their group is comfortable at 9's there's no reason not to try a 10a at some point -- especially considering that this one should be dry, despite what the name might suggest, and considering it's like totally the sweetest route ever.

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by Jared » Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:01 am

I'll take a look at the "totally the sweetest route ever" because how could I ever pass up the totally sweetest. Thank you again everyone for your help and making the hours at work filled of procrastination reading the guide book when no one is looking.

From all this I'm headed to muir valley, wrote down and dog eared the pages in the book and now can sort of wing it based on the conditions. Also there are supposed to be PM showers if it rains so we will make good use of the morning.

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by bcombs » Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:16 am

nik wrote:....and considering it's like totally the sweetest route ever.
Say what?

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Re: Weather Help 7/13-7/15: Lower skill level climber

Post by Brentucky » Fri Jul 13, 2012 11:19 am

Since you have Bruisbrothers dogeared then you may as well head over to Sunnyside which is off the same trail. There is a 5.9 (Kokopeli's Dream) and also a 5.7/8 that isn't in the book that shares the start with Machete (very good 5.10b), but it goes up left at some bolt to lower anchors.
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