Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

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climb2core
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Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by climb2core » Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:08 pm

Dan Lubber recently posted on FB an old photo from about 5 years ago of an individual free soloing Chainsaw. My question to the climbing community... When is free soloing bold and acceptable and when is it just dangerous, selfish, and wrong? Can there be situations where it is acceptable in one situation but not another?

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by stix » Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:51 pm

no
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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by clif » Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:57 pm

isn't the "Land of Opportunity" the same as having the right to do stuff that is both 'bold and acceptable' while also being 'dangerous, selfish, and wrong'?

i use 'wrong' here the same way everyone else uses 'indefinite detention'
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by Dmack » Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:19 pm

Can it be neither?

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by dustonian » Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:23 pm

How about just "Spraylord"?

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by graniteclimber » Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:49 pm

Free soloing is cool.

I never understood the whole free solo a sport route thing though... How do you get down??? That's just dumb.

Doing something and topping out with shoes and a chalkbag is cool. Taking a bunch of photos and putting them on FB? Lame.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by clif » Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:26 pm

Dmack wrote:Can it be neither?
this sounds promising, care to elaborate?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by dustonian » Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:43 pm

used to be 3 rules in freesoloing: don't fall, don't spray, always make sure you can (probably) downclimb. somewhere along the line rule #2 got lost.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by clif » Tue Sep 18, 2012 7:55 pm

yeah, it's just hard for me to draw such a hard line against someone else who is willing to tell you that the boundaries you're accepting are arbitrary, and can prove it.
i think the value is variable. i'd probably take a chance on chainsaw if i ran laps on it every weekend for years as a warmup, wouldn't mean much. Dan Osman's onsight, if i remember correctly, of [edit: The Gun Club 12c] at the NRG, pretty bad ass, imo.
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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by Cromper » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:28 pm

dustonian wrote:used to be 3 rules in freesoloing: don't fall, don't spray, always make sure you can (probably) downclimb. somewhere along the line rule #2 got lost.
You can witness that rule 3 got lost with me as well.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by clif » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:34 pm

did this involve the Inhibitor?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by dustonian » Tue Sep 18, 2012 8:59 pm

Cromper wrote:
dustonian wrote:used to be 3 rules in freesoloing: don't fall, don't spray, always make sure you can (probably) downclimb. somewhere along the line rule #2 got lost.
You can witness that rule 3 got lost with me as well.
LOL!! At least it was a high-end route, Honnold! ;)

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by Cromper » Tue Sep 18, 2012 10:54 pm

clif wrote:did this involve the Inhibitor?
I wish it was as cool as that haha

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by clif » Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:20 pm

yeah, i've free soloed the first three jams of that route, down climbed and never told anyone about 20 times. i'm not counting this.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Bad Ass or Dumb Ass?

Post by whoneedsfeet » Tue Sep 18, 2012 11:34 pm

Free soloed my basement steps today without the banisters or walls for balance, suck it Chris.
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.

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