Ondra Patrol

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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tbwilsonky
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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by tbwilsonky » Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:22 am

mcrib wrote:If only Ondra would confirm the grade of Bare Metal Teen for all of us.
fuck. yes.

Ondra is so consistently subjective that he is practically objective.
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climb2core
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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:00 am

Subjectively being consistent: Being honest with yourself about the grade and not grading based on concerns of what others will think. Thanks TW.

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by tbwilsonky » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:51 am

i take issue with the idea of using a constantly changing version of you as a constant in evaluating different climbs (which themselves are absurdly complex). asking for consistency under these conditions is impossible. it would be akin to asking people to remove themselves from the social element when assigning a grade. because, you know, it's easy to just side-step being human.

i understand the urge to quantify things. to submit your practice to a rigorous systemization. i do. it's tough to be out there doing stuff without being able to engineer it to death.

but climbing ain't the thing, man.
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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:57 am

tbwilsonky wrote:i take issue with the idea of using a constantly changing version of you as a constant in evaluating different climbs (which themselves are absurdly complex). asking for consistency under these conditions is impossible. it would be akin to asking people to remove themselves from the social element when assigning a grade. because, you know, it's easy to just side-step being human.

i understand the urge to quantify things. to submit your practice to a rigorous systemization. i do. it's tough to be out there doing stuff without being able to engineer it to death.

but climbing ain't the thing, man.
It's all we got, so make the best of it.

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by tbwilsonky » Wed Oct 31, 2012 9:59 am

climb2core wrote:
tbwilsonky wrote:i take issue with the idea of using a constantly changing version of you as a constant in evaluating different climbs (which themselves are absurdly complex). asking for consistency under these conditions is impossible. it would be akin to asking people to remove themselves from the social element when assigning a grade. because, you know, it's easy to just side-step being human.

i understand the urge to quantify things. to submit your practice to a rigorous systemization. i do. it's tough to be out there doing stuff without being able to engineer it to death.

but climbing ain't the thing, man.
It's all we got, so make the best of it.
13b :)
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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by climb2core » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:08 am

Ok Kenny

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by dustonian » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:17 am

If in doubt, just call it 11+

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by tbwilsonky » Wed Oct 31, 2012 10:21 am

i don't want to suggest I am somehow above (or below) the impossible task of measuring difficulty. as a prolific FAist of practice climbs (the kids call it 'boulderings', i think) I am often called upon to reign o'er them with numerical signification. my methodology is like so:

compare to the most recent climbs i've done
compare to closer problems first (sector, area, state, region)
compare to similar 'style' problems (roof, slab, etc.

from this extensive data set I estimate the lowest possible grade.... and add 1. this not only bumps my 8a score but it also gives people a chance to participate in the greatest ego-hump of all: downgrading.
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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by dustonian » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:23 pm

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/vie ... ghts-ondra

Well, that's that... the only challenge left in the RRG is now Scarlet Scorchdropper...

I wonder how SCIN will handle the proposed downgrades (or in the case of Golden Ticket, return to the FAs original grade)..?

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by climb2core » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:38 pm

Awesome... I made a prediction he would onsight 2 14d's today. I was wrong as apparently they are apparently just 14c

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by terrizzi » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:44 pm

Im not sure if I'd say thats that...how many of you who climb 13's could look at a 11b and say "no way thats 11a" where most people are spot on calling it 11b? Now look at the fact that grades are somewhat subjective and the fact that we have a super elite climber calling the reds routes soft...

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by Jeff » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:47 pm

Thanks for visiting. We will leave the lights on for ya.

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by Spikeddem » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:49 pm

terrizzi wrote:Im not sure if I'd say thats that...how many of you who climb 13's could look at a 11b and say "no way thats 11a" where most people are spot on calling it 11b? Now look at the fact that grades are somewhat subjective and the fact that we have a super elite climber calling the reds routes soft...
So now AO climbs six letter grades harder than 14d?

As far as being done with the Red, I think he is the last remaining person to weigh in on Icebreaker, actually.

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by dustonian » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:55 pm

He should go for the second ascent of Silently Does the Sun Shine for something more interesting...

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Re: Ondra Patrol

Post by climb2core » Thu Nov 01, 2012 11:06 pm

Dustin, can you go throw some bolts into the blank wall to the right of Mosaic and call it a 14d. We have to save some face.

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