Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

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climb2core
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Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by climb2core » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:17 am

A new line went up at Choco Factory right. It is apparently a 10ish route and has been bolted with some spice. I understand that there is a ledge with significant decking potential if you fall. Just a regular fall, not the rope in hand clipping type of decking fall.

Also seems that no one knows who bolted it yet. So, is it ok to intentionally bolt a route with obvious potential to deck? Developers "choice" or not?

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by JR » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:43 am

Rap bolting R rated sport routes seems kinda silly to me. Bolting R rated sport routes on lead is slightly less silly.

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by One-Fall » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:02 pm

If you are going to take the time to drill a hole, put it in the right place.
Can't we all just get along?

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by bcombs » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:08 pm

Routes with ledges suck to bolt no matter how you look at it. If the climbing is hard above the ledge adding more bolts for safety might be the right call, but then the climber is clipping 2-3 times during the danger zone. If the climbing is too easy it is easy to think that a high standing clip from the ledge is enough and then continue bolting with normal spacing. These are the routes, that when done correctly, actually deserve some kudos. There is / was, at least for me, quite a bit of consideration with each placement.

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by climb2core » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:24 pm

I think the answer is obvious and just an evolution of the sport...

We need perma-stickclips at each ledge.

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by dustonian » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:40 pm

I thought you were the type who just climbed with a stick clip on their harness.

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by bcombs » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:46 pm

Haha... this reminds me of a story.

I was at the Obed in the Library and climbing the one 5.11 route in there that leads to the roof (I forget the name). I tried a few moves out the roof clipped one or two bolts then fell / lowered. After I lower, a pair of guys walk up and the larger of the two (not larger in a good way, like Andrew large) says howdy and puts his harness on. He proceeds to rope up, stick clip the first and pull himself up to it. Then goes in direct, sticks the second, etc... As you can imagine this goes on up the wall and then out the roof. Totally hilarious to watch because, frankly, it is probably more work to stick clip up a route like that than it is to actually climb the damn thing.

After he lowers he says "That's the first time I've completed that route". So I guess "sent" is all relative. :)


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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by Yasmeen » Tue Nov 13, 2012 1:36 pm

bcombs wrote:Haha... this reminds me of a story.

I was at the Obed in the Library and climbing the one 5.11 route in there that leads to the roof (I forget the name). I tried a few moves out the roof clipped one or two bolts then fell / lowered. After I lower, a pair of guys walk up and the larger of the two (not larger in a good way, like Andrew large) says howdy and puts his harness on. He proceeds to rope up, stick clip the first and pull himself up to it. Then goes in direct, sticks the second, etc... As you can imagine this goes on up the wall and then out the roof. Totally hilarious to watch because, frankly, it is probably more work to stick clip up a route like that than it is to actually climb the damn thing.

After he lowers he says "That's the first time I've completed that route". So I guess "sent" is all relative. :)
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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by bcombs » Tue Nov 13, 2012 2:23 pm

Yasmeen wrote:Yo. Image My boy just sent Rage. Image
Nice! :D

I've been spraying for that guy for years. So at least there is that.

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Re: Should bolters be putting the R in spoRt?

Post by captain static » Wed Nov 14, 2012 12:58 pm

Stick clipping up an entire climb is how I earned my entry into Teak Suck and was presented with the coveted suck mat.
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