Sporty sport lines allowed?

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by chriss » Wed Nov 28, 2012 7:16 am

dustonian wrote:I don't think the fall from up there would be that bad.
Just kind of bad? I certainly would not want to take that fall. How would you as a developer feel, if someone fell and was injured due to a bad bolt placement with respect to a ledge or an unnecessary runout? I am trying to get back to pigsteaks original question.

Disclaimer: I have no problems with the bolting of this route. Just a random example.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by pigsteak » Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:50 am

it is a game of decisions no doubt..every single sport route could be totally dumbed down with bolts every 2-3 feet...anyone want that?

as we start spreading out the bolt placements, we primarily are taking our own view of risk/ability/safety into consideration. personally when I bolt the line my primary question to myself is: how will a climber who is totally confident/competent and comfortable at this grade feel about the line. I do not bolt a 12a with an aspiring 11b climber in mind. if you are climbing one of my routes at your limit, dont expect a security blanket every 3 feet just because you are sketched. if the grade is within your comfort range, expect to be pleased with the balance of the entire experience.
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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by der uber » Wed Nov 28, 2012 8:54 am

pigsteak wrote:it is a game of decisions no doubt..every single sport route could be totally dumbed down with bolts every 2-3 feet...anyone want that?

as we start spreading out the bolt placements, we primarily are taking our own view of risk/ability/safety into consideration. personally when I bolt the line my primary question to myself is: how will a climber who is totally confident/competent and comfortable at this grade feel about the line. I do not bolt a 12a with an aspiring 11b climber in mind. if you are climbing one of my routes at your limit, dont expect a security blanket every 3 feet just because you are sketched. if the grade is within your comfort range, expect to be pleased with the balance of the entire experience.
To the person who hacked Kipp's account and started making sincere and thoughtful posts, well said.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by tbwilsonky » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:23 am

less bolts makes sport climbing feel like something it isn't.

i applaud the developers who don't feel like they need to ruin that with a metal crutch every body length.
haunted.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by Jeff » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:33 am

pigsteak wrote:it is a game of decisions no doubt..every single sport route could be totally dumbed down with bolts every 2-3 feet...anyone want that?

as we start spreading out the bolt placements, we primarily are taking our own view of risk/ability/safety into consideration. personally when I bolt the line my primary question to myself is: how will a climber who is totally confident/competent and comfortable at this grade feel about the line. I do not bolt a 12a with an aspiring 11b climber in mind. if you are climbing one of my routes at your limit, dont expect a security blanket every 3 feet just because you are sketched. if the grade is within your comfort range, expect to be pleased with the balance of the entire experience.
+1.
I don't think it could have been said any better.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by dustonian » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:39 am

Agreed. Are we climbing rocks or running a babysitting service here?

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by chriss » Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:57 am

pigsteak wrote: personally when I bolt the line my primary question to myself is: how will a climber who is totally confident/competent and comfortable at this grade feel about the line. ..... if the grade is within your comfort range, expect to be pleased with the balance of the entire experience.
Well put!

Thanks for the hard work involved with putting up routes you guys!

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by climb2core » Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:00 am

I love the little extra air you get and commitment, assuming it does not end on the ground or a ledge. Soul Ram comes to mind as that type of route. Bolts are maybe 10 or 12 feet apart? That is pretty much vertical and falls are non issue with a soft catch.


However, gratuitous bolting does have its place for people learning how to lead and fall. I would say keep them closer together if the character the wall is more beginner to lower intermediate (5.8 to 5.10). So maybe keep places like Left Field and the Playground closer together but not so much at the warm up routes at the Darkside or Brightside.

For climbs getting into 5.11 or above... you should know how to fall by then. Space it out unless it is a wall like Great wall that attracts the gumbies with the 5.6 to 5.10 range.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by der uber » Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:36 am

Image

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by camhead » Wed Nov 28, 2012 10:59 am

pigsteak wrote:With the recent comments about "bad bolting jobs" I was wondering what all the chode chuffers on here thought. Is there room for sporty sport lines? Is it the job of the developer to make your experience stress free? We hate the perma police but then we demand that certain sport lines be fixed....

Do mixed lines also have to follow this protocol? If my bolts are perfectly placed but you suck at placing gear and deck, is that my fault?

Why not bring a bit of sauce back to the game? Climbers should always have the option of down climbing.
SEARCH FUNCTION N00B!!!!!111

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... =5&t=14891

The guy who posted this thread seems to have some very informative opinions on this topic. Maybe you could even send him a PM to discuss more?
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by climb2core » Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:28 am

Nick, changed my mind. Like I said before, you are not worth responding to.
Last edited by climb2core on Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:57 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by Meadows » Wed Nov 28, 2012 11:44 am

All this said, I noticed that many of the lines in the guidebook don't list the equipper and only the FA (sometimes not the same person). I'm more interested in the bolting rather than the person who sent, although both pieces of info are relevant.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by clif » Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:04 pm

i appreciate Dustin's review of the current meanings of the various styles and whatnot, i guess i still kind of go by the Bachar-Yerian standard and would consider that a 'sport' route, which i guess would be a 'traditional' sport route as opposed to the nouveau 'sport' route?
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by rjackson » Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:15 pm

climb2core wrote:Nick, you rock! Your memes make me look cool... Can I hire you to design my next facebook page?
You gotta love this site!
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Re: Sporty sport lines allowed?

Post by kafish2 » Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:50 pm

Nick, I have a huge man crush on you...

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