Sport Climbing Season

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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One-Fall
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by One-Fall » Fri Nov 30, 2012 4:26 pm

Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags.
Can't we all just get along?

allah
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by allah » Fri Nov 30, 2012 6:41 pm

Hahahahahaha!!! Are my draw still on that route One-Fall? Lol

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One-Fall
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by One-Fall » Fri Nov 30, 2012 7:00 pm

allah wrote:Hahahahahaha!!! Are my draw still on that route One-Fall? Lol
Yeah, but not for long :)
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pigsteak
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by pigsteak » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:05 pm

do we need to send c2c out first to make sure it is bolted and equipped properly?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by dustonian » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:34 pm

One-Fall wrote:Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags.
Sweet! Team Wheatley can replace the bolts then ;)

Beautiful line Kenny... thing was getting gangbanged this fall.

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climb2core
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by climb2core » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:47 pm

pigsteak wrote:do we need to send c2c out first to make sure it is bolted and equipped properly?
I am not smart enough for bolts, and I am sure Onefall can figure out the draws. And I am sure he will be down with pulling off any aluminum when he is done. See, that was simple.

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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by tejas » Fri Nov 30, 2012 9:43 pm

One-Fall wrote:
allah wrote:Hahahahahaha!!! Are my draw still on that route One-Fall? Lol
Yeah, but not for long :)
Just as a heads up, those are not the old worn out draws on it right now.

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One-Fall
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by One-Fall » Fri Nov 30, 2012 10:28 pm

One-Fall wrote:Dustin, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags.
Can't we all just get along?

allah
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by allah » Sat Dec 01, 2012 4:04 am

dustonian wrote:
One-Fall wrote:Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags.
Sweet! Team Wheatley can replace the bolts then ;)

Beautiful line Kenny... thing was getting gangbanged this fall.

That's not my line, wish I could say it was! I remember trying it once about 4 years ago and thought I would head back to try again in better temps but never did and just left the draws. They should have been taken off long ago but I saw them on it a year ago lol

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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by shear » Sat Dec 01, 2012 9:36 am

allah wrote:
dustonian wrote:
One-Fall wrote:Wheatley, Sugar Magnolia. Your style. Save a few days to help me out on it. There is good karma in it for you. You need some after all those sand bags.
Sweet! Team Wheatley can replace the bolts then ;)

Beautiful line Kenny... thing was getting gangbanged this fall.

That's not my line, wish I could say it was! I remember trying it once about 4 years ago and thought I would head back to try again in better temps but never did and just left the draws. They should have been taken off long ago but I saw them on it a year ago lol
Heard that thing is more like 13a or b...but we all know that "face" routes in the Red are way over-graded................

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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by One-Fall » Sat Dec 01, 2012 11:26 am

shear wrote:
Heard that thing is more like 13a or b...but we all know that "face" routes in the Red are way over-graded................
Ouch! It seemed a significant step up from No Redemption for me. But no doubt, I have so much to learn about climbing at that angle.
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by allah » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:38 pm

Hey! I gave no redemption 12d originally same thing with brilliant orange. But we all know after this season that the red is soft right?

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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by One-Fall » Sat Dec 01, 2012 10:37 pm

allah wrote:Hey! I gave no redemption 12d originally same thing with brilliant orange. But we all know after this season that the red is soft right?
Grades being what they are, NR was the hardest thing I've done to date. Are our vert routes that far off in grade compared to other areas?
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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by shear » Sat Dec 01, 2012 11:25 pm

allah wrote:Hey! I gave no redemption 12d originally same thing with brilliant orange. But we all know after this season that the red is soft right?
Yeah Kenny...12d is probably spot on. 8)

The New is my barometer...so I literally have NO idea.

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Re: Sport Climbing Season

Post by allah » Sun Dec 02, 2012 8:10 am

One-Fall- Out of the areas I have climbed around the states, southern Spain, frankenjura, and ceuse NR and most of the tech routes would be a grade or 2 softer. I've mainly come to that conclusion after spending time in Europe, I thought the climbing was going to be aboUt the same but it is truly humbling over here. That's not to say that I have also climbed routes easy for the grades as well. As far as NR when I did it I had a few factors go my way even though the conditions were shit, and I remember thinking for me the route was 12d but could see 13a. Then others got on it and thought 13c or really hard b. (other than Jason forester which thought the same as I did. You know as well as I know that grades are personal, he'll if I had an 8a account Golden boy would be 13d for me :) and there are many routes like that in the red for me! Nice job once again on NR and F*ck SM up!

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