climb2core wrote:To Wheatley's defense, he has no understanding of grading as his mutant arms by pass cruxes that he never knew existed.
I can't tell you how many times I have said this to people. I am way to tall to be grading things. The problem with being tall is that some stuff is way harder for me and some stuff is way easier. So getting the grade accurate is difficult.
I will also say that I have a tendency to bolt routes with non-typical RRG style. I tend to be good at figuring out funky beta to make moves easier. Its not my fault yall cant figure out how to climb. I also usually have a few people climb the route before I grade it and I will take the consensus grade.
As far as "here comes palin" is concerned the FA was done by trending left at the "crux". The route flows very well that way and is not outside the realm of off route and a few repeaters of the roue agreed that this was the logical approach to the climb. It also keeps the route more consistent. We can start upgrading everything if people want to take the hard way up routes. I surely can make Mr. Bungle 5.13 with the right beta.
Shadow is right, yall complain about FREE new routes. Go bolt your own if you don't like the grade. I promise that I try to grade routes accurately while adhering to the "solid for the grade" philosophy. Too many gimmies at the RRG.