Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

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dray2009
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Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by dray2009 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:41 pm

Hi all,

I did a search of the forum but couldn't find an answer so I'm availing myself of your advice.

Trying to encourage my gf in her desire to lead sport climbs (she's a great second on trad) and we're looking for a sport crag (or crags near to one another) where I can jump on intermediate stuff (5.10 - 11+) and she can clip beginner bolts (5.7 - 5.9 range)... or something like that.

Much appreciated.

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:52 pm

Phantasia - you can hop on creep show/count floyd show, and she can roll up lord of the flies, twinkie, overlord, pogue ethics, etc...

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by dray2009 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:59 pm

Thanks @tyler.yarbrough

Sounds good for me. With the exception of LOTF, the other routes you mention for my beginner GF go at 10b - 12a (according to the online guide). Is the guide wrong? Thx,.

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by agdenm2 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:00 pm

Don't go to Phantasia. Go to Crossroads

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by whoneedsfeet » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:02 pm

you could try the shire. 7,8,9 all in a row and a few mid to upper 10s, plus you are a five second hike to north 40.
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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by dray2009 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:08 pm

OK... will do a little research on Crossroads and the Shire... and North 40. Been to RRG before, but it's been awhile. Appreciate any additional suggestions.

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by toad857 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:13 pm

Bruise brothers is your wall. Some tall 10's for you, easy short bolted routes for her. Bring a rack if you want to have a tall, easy trad line to yourself (amongst the crowd).

Bring $5 for the donation box

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by Rotarypwr345704 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:34 pm

They're all wrong. Darkside or Hamptons Wall is where it's at. And if those aren't tickling your fancy go to Roadside or Torrent. They're both open to the public now!
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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by clif » Wed Apr 03, 2013 3:08 pm

sore heel hollow parking provides access to many individual crags, including the shire and the gallery, both have easy leads and the mix.
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by climb2core » Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:11 pm

Muir Valley, Great Wall is your wall... Fits your requirements to a t.

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by dray2009 » Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:36 pm

Thanks all for the great beta. You've saved me time and helped with my planning. Much appreciated.

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by Willy » Wed Apr 03, 2013 9:52 pm

Crossroads is about the wall that has been mentioned so far where you won't have to fight with crowds too much. Be sure to print the guide off of here or have the new book with you though. If you don't have a high clearance vehicle the road can be tricky but its not bad to park by the oil tank and just walk it (10 min)

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by lena_chita » Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:21 am

of the walls not mentioned yet, Land Before Time in Muir Valley (look in the online guide, it is not in the printed guidebooks)

Despite not being in the guidebook, it is easy to find, based on the map that is located at the trailhead, (when leaving the parking lot towards Bruise Brothers).. has 5.7, 2x5.8, 2x5.9, 10a, 10c. Short hike, and all the routes have little tags at the bottom with grade/name info.

5.7 and one of the 5.8s are pretty crappy, but the other 5.8 (the taller one) is very good, and the 5.9 (Ryanosaurus) IMO is one of the better climbs of that grade overall.

Also-- Great Arch. Only one 5.9, but it is VERY good. And the the 10a next to it is also really easy. The wall has couple nice 5.11s, too

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by tradotto » Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:40 am

Have they fixed the bolts on the 10a? Last time I was there someone broke an ankle on a fall while pulling the little roof.
42

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Re: Walls for a beginner / intermediate team?

Post by climb2core » Thu Apr 04, 2013 10:43 am

Is it badly engineered, or perhaps a better belay/fall could have prevented it?

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