Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

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ZeroContent
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Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by ZeroContent » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:29 pm

For whatever reason I love slab and balancy routes (my partner hates them) so I was wonder if anyone had their favorites in The Red. The online guide book lacks a lot of steepness ratings and sometimes aren't accurate. I'm wondering if there are more routes like Karmic Retribution, which is my favorite slab climb so far in The Red.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by Andrew » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:39 pm

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by Ascentionist » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:40 pm

I like Yellow Brick Road.

I hear North Carolina has some slabs. (And I hate it more than anybody when you ask about an area and someone directs you to a different area)
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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by dustonian » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:46 pm

Sacred Stones, Buttsweat & Tears, Skunk Love, Brouwer Power, There Goes the Neighborhood, Slide.... the Red has tons of great slabs!

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by clif » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:48 pm

the routes at the far end of Chica Bonita, blue/brown eyes, sally/sue, that's what she said, liar....
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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by dustonian » Fri Apr 05, 2013 2:51 pm

+1 clifford.

Giblets at Drive By, Praestantissimum at Dark Side, and All Things Considered at Military are really good too...

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by lena_chita » Fri Apr 05, 2013 3:59 pm

All Things Considered is my favorite slab route, and I normally don't like slabs.

Henry! at the left Flank is the slab everyone who likes slabs seems to like.

If you are looking for 5.10s, like Karmic, try Possum Lips at the Military wall.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by lena_chita » Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:01 pm

Oh, and Skunk Love and Stirring the Grits, on the back side of Purgatory. Though if you are short... well, I won't say anymore.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by climb2core » Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:10 pm

Random Precision is a worth while adventure.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by nik » Fri Apr 05, 2013 4:32 pm

+1 for yellow brick road!

no sleep til campton and boltergeist.

but, to be clear, +a very large 1 for yellow brick road.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by graniteclimber » Fri Apr 05, 2013 5:06 pm

yellow brick road is great. It has the bonus of being the only route at the red not under the canopy. Some of the other techy off vert routes to the right of it were fun too.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by michaelarmand » Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:00 pm

All the slabs at Chica Bonita and at Slab City that I have been on were really good. Tell your partner to man up!!
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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by Brentucky » Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:12 pm

Yep, Chica has some good ones. My two favorites there are "That's What She Said" 10c, and "You Take Sally" 11d. For a couple more, try "Curbside No Traction" 10c with a move that I never understood how it was quite possible, but friction is some amazing shit. Also "Butane Junky" 12a is my recent favorite slab-like route.
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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by bcircell » Fri Apr 05, 2013 9:35 pm

Go to Jackson, RRG slabs (for the most part) are actually technical face climbs.

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Re: Favorite Slab/Balancy routes

Post by michaelarmand » Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:02 pm

bcircell wrote:Go to Jackson, RRG slabs (for the most part) are actually technical face climbs.
Yes, anything that is not overhanging is commonly called a slab in the gorge. I would be clueless on a real slab climb!
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