Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
jlutotherescue
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:18 am

Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by jlutotherescue » Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:03 pm

I was recently thinking about crappy trad routes and wondering if bolts would make them better. Is it possible to take a 2-star gear-protected route, bolt it, and turn it into a 3 star (or better) sport route?
Sometimes cucumbers taste better pickled.

whoneedsfeet
Poser
Poser
Posts: 346
Joined: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:40 pm
Location: Oh god! Did I really move to Miguel's?

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by whoneedsfeet » Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:15 pm

Talk to the wheatleys
Skipping cruxes is a way of life.

ted
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 166
Joined: Thu Jan 28, 2010 12:56 am
Location: Berea

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by ted » Sun Apr 28, 2013 10:30 pm

how does that work?

User avatar
tbwilsonky
Chuck
Posts: 868
Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 5:38 pm
Location: Lexington
Contact:

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by tbwilsonky » Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:12 pm

a blank cliff face doesn't get any stars. throw bolts on it and its at least going to get one.

ergo ergo sum propter hoc --->>> bolts make stars.
haunted.

User avatar
SCIN
BANNED
Posts: 4981
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:19 am
Location: Lexington, KY

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by SCIN » Sun Apr 28, 2013 11:44 pm

Works great at Owens!
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio

User avatar
krampus
Snake Charmer
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 5:31 am
Location: avoiding leaves
Contact:

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by krampus » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:58 am

I think we should just bolt all the trad routs and then lower the grade by a letter or two so the difficulty will be more accurately represented. The Stars will follow.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared

User avatar
tradotto
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 94
Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:11 pm
Location: Cincinnati
Contact:

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by tradotto » Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:00 am

whoneedsfeet wrote:Talk to the wheatleys
OOOOOHHHHHHH!
42

Andrew
Happy Tee Hee
Posts: 3814
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 5:40 pm
Location: Cinci

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by Andrew » Mon Apr 29, 2013 10:03 am

tradotto wrote:
whoneedsfeet wrote:Talk to the wheatleys
OOOOOHHHHHHH!
The conversion is wrong. 2 star trad route turns into 5 star bolted route. Get it right.
Living the dream

User avatar
Willy
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 177
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:49 pm
Location: Murica

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by Willy » Mon Apr 29, 2013 11:39 am

In the case of EGBG there was certainly a much higher quality line of face holds in close proximity to a protectable crack that on its own will likely see few ascents. These were for the most part separate lines, however, one singular line worthy of two stars is still two star climbing whether its protected with gear or bolts imo. Adding bolts would help it see more traffic though.

jlutotherescue
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2008 9:18 am

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by jlutotherescue » Mon Apr 29, 2013 12:54 pm

No doubt Willy, and you're right, a 2star will remain so regardless of it having bolts or not. Maybe the better question to ask is if I get the FA on a 2 star crackish route, do i then inherit the right to bolt it as a sport route if I wish?
Sometimes cucumbers taste better pickled.

anticlmber
Tenderheart Bear
Posts: 3393
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:34 pm
Location: standing behind you putting gloves on

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by anticlmber » Mon Apr 29, 2013 1:52 pm

I guess if you need the feeling of acceptance or accomplishment from a bullshit endeavor. Bolting all the shit at wolf pen, tooth buttress, or other obscure piles won't make people go out there anymore than before. But, judging by your profile pic, I'd say your fine with trying to pass off a trad climbers work as your own.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life

User avatar
Willy
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 177
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:49 pm
Location: Murica

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by Willy » Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:02 pm

Start making sense and maybe I can be offended.

anticlmber
Tenderheart Bear
Posts: 3393
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:34 pm
Location: standing behind you putting gloves on

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by anticlmber » Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:15 pm

i ain't here for you or your entertainment willy. i'll type slower next time so you can follow along. but, since you may need it spelled out, a) those crags suck to go to and they wouldn't be any better with bolts. 2) bullshit endeavor = climbing. doesn't accomplish anything and makes people feel special for nothing. kinda like the facebook of sports. z) that picture, over there ---> that's a profile pic. his is a pic that bart b (who is a gear climber....fuck that, a climber) took years ago, i think it's even his profile pic but he don't post no more. hence, the passing off other's work etc., etc. hope this helps. had my 9yo retard brother proof read and he gets it. i'm hoping the best for you.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life

User avatar
tradotto
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 94
Joined: Fri Oct 02, 2009 4:11 pm
Location: Cincinnati
Contact:

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by tradotto » Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:28 pm

I am so confused.
42

anticlmber
Tenderheart Bear
Posts: 3393
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 8:34 pm
Location: standing behind you putting gloves on

Re: Bolt that 2-star trad route!

Post by anticlmber » Mon Apr 29, 2013 2:39 pm

i'm sure you cunts are
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life

Post Reply