Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

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Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by whoneedsfeet » Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:57 pm

So the strong freaks have a thread for 13a, thought us mere mortals should have a chance to spray a well. So what's your favorite sub 12 route and why?
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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by krampus » Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:58 pm

ro shampo of course
Last edited by krampus on Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by dustonian » Thu Oct 24, 2013 12:58 pm

Whiteout, Fibrulator Direct, Inhibitor, and Daytripping. Next Day Air is up there too with that killer belay ledge. Cuz they're fun... sub-12 trad is awesome in the Red!

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by lena_chita » Thu Oct 24, 2013 1:36 pm

Oompha, Brief History of Climb, Whipstocking, Banshee, Centerfire, No place like Home, Infidel

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by Wolf » Thu Oct 24, 2013 1:46 pm

Dave the Dude. Inhibitor. B3. Daytripping. Crown of Thorns. Yellow Brick Road. 27 years of Climbing. About half of the 11bs.
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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by dustonian » Thu Oct 24, 2013 1:50 pm

Oh yeah forgot about B3! Good call... Hidden Treasure is pretty damn good too. I'll throw a few sport lines in there like Crosley, Check Your Grip, Banshee, King Me, Jack in the Pulpit and Super Dario, Amarillo Sunset, Breakfast Burrito and Fire & Brimstone, Sloppy Seconds, ROCS, Infidel, No Place, most of the Bronaugh Wall 11's and the former 5.10s at Pocket Wall, RIP... ok the list just got way too long.

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by nik » Thu Oct 24, 2013 3:50 pm

so many good ones. won't mention them all, but i do think that there are two over-looked easier routes that deserve five stars.

pogue ethics and bandolier.

i think pogue ethics is easily better than all the other classic sub-10 routes (27 years, eureka, creature feature, etc.). a few thin plates (and sometimes damp start) shouldn't detract from the incredibly fun, flowing movement the whole way up. not to mention it's about as tall and proud as you'll get for a .9 'round these parts.

and, bandolier...what to say? it's just so damn good. maybe the best 11a i've done (with a shout out to super dario and pinkalicious).

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by tyler.yarbrough » Thu Nov 07, 2013 4:36 pm

1) Bathtub Mary - SO good
2) Air Ride
3) Whip Stocking
4) Breakfast Burrito
5) Banjolero
6) Boltergeist
7) Both 5.10 slab lines at Chica Bonita

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by nik » Thu Nov 07, 2013 4:57 pm

i agree that bathtub mary is fun, but i've never been able to figure out why that one gets so much love while picador sits right next door and is just as good, if not better.

i think the slab on picador is more thoughtful, that the moves getting into the hueco are more fun (mantle!!!), and that the run to the chains is more exciting. whatevs. both cool routes.

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by Chiyram » Thu Nov 07, 2013 5:42 pm

1) Bathtub Mary
2) KSB
3) Babinski Sign
4) Banshee
5) To Defy The Laws of Tradition
6) Creep Show
7) Overlord
8) Headstone Surfer
9) Balance Beam
10) Sacriledge

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by businessprofessional » Thu Nov 07, 2013 7:19 pm

Infidel
King Me
Hippie Speedball
Jingus

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by allah » Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:50 pm

BALL SCRATCHER!!!!

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by tpowell » Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:05 pm

King Me, Dave the Dude, Thrillbillies, Snake, Autumn, Good times.

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by tbwilsonky » Thu Nov 07, 2013 9:08 pm

i like everything but a few favorites include:
Buddha Hole
KSB
Ro Shampo
Autograph (great movement despite the chossy top)
The Stranger
haunted.

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Re: Favorite sub 12 route in the red.

Post by MrFizz » Fri Nov 08, 2013 7:37 pm

For sport definitely Dave the Dude. For trad you got to go with Rock Wars.
Last edited by MrFizz on Tue Dec 31, 2013 12:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
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