Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
My first time to Miller Fork I was expecting some quality climbs, but I was sadly disappointed. Miller Fork is full of three star climbs and the 'classics' are four stars at best. Five star climbs are no where in sight. What's going on? Is there more rock, (not the shit kind)?
As someone who has developed around 20 routes in Miller, I have to agree. There are a lot of great climbs, but I have yet to see anything five star. Has anyone even seen a lone 5 star gem, any grade?
Living the dream
I got one way back in the woods , and what the hell are you talking about, Singularity is 5 stars!Andrew wrote:As someone who has developed around 20 routes in Miller, I have to agree. There are a lot of great climbs, but I have yet to see anything five star. Has anyone even seen a lone 5 star gem, any grade?
I agree. I think Miller is going to serve its purpose perfectly (i.e. as an area of good, fun climbing to disperse the growing crowds), but i'm curious, geologically, how it is possible to have such a large area of rock with no pristine lines. Just five miles northeast is the southern region proper, and here it would seem that for every 50 or so climbs there is a gem, yet miller - nothing. Just bad luck? Or does the red river gorge geology yield poorer quality rock just outside of a very limited range? Maybe some of the avid cliff explorers can weigh in.
there's no surefire recipe for success when it comes to finding good stuff in the DBNF, which is precisely why we keep rounding the next corner.
A lot of the climbs I have done in the MFRP are as good as some of the older "classics" that this site and the book lists as 5 star routes. Just not covered in as much chalk and grease yet...
Perhaps there is no Gold Coast (although Cromp's super secret kool kid wall comes close), but how many could there be really? The rock in MFRP is no different than the rock in PMRP or Muir. Some walls are choss that will get better with time, some walls are good. Monastery, Corner Pocket, Cloud 9, Secret Garden, Fruit Wall, Highlands, and Graveyard/Morgue all have very good routes. Hourglass Crack, Cornerstone, and Scalpel are easily "5-star" on the absurdist RRG scale. I also think the 12's at Monastery are as good as the 5.12 Wall at Torrent. You guys are letting cynical cool-guy attitude and lack of traffic confound your inferences.
All those fun fumes from the glue must have made you an optimist. I am not refering to the rock quality when I talking about the quality of the climbs. I understand that it is new rock, and I actually find the rock quality to be quite good. What I feel makes Miller Fork sub par to the rest of the areas is that the majority of the climbs have awkward and inconsistent movements.
lolz... my mistake. I thought by "the shit kind" of rock you were referring to rock quality...
So "majority of the climbs" you say... that means you climbed 109 of the routes on your first visit (excluding the other hundred or more that aren't published), and all 109 had "awkward and inconsistent" movements. Quite the day!AlexAndEr wrote:My first time to Miller Fork I was expecting some quality climbs, but I was sadly disappointed. Miller Fork is full of three star climbs and the 'classics' are four stars at best. Five star climbs are no where in sight. What's going on? Is there more rock, (not the shit kind)?
I went point harvesting... That's why this thread was created to see what other people had to say about what they thought the majority of the climbs in Miller Fork are like. I am not saying that there aren't good walls like The Deep End, Serenity Point and The Monastery, but even those walls, which we can all agree on are some of the better places can't compete with alot of the areas in the PMRP, the RRG proper, or even the loads of secret crags. Compare the walls I listed in Miller Fork to Gold Coast, Purgatory, Funk Rock, Left Flank, Eastern Sky Bridge, Dark Side, Torrent Falls, Hogs Gap, Epic Crag, Oil Crack need I go on. Like it was said earlier, Miller Fork serves its purpose. Miller Fork has lots of rock, and unfortuneatly nothing awe-inspiring; nevertheless, it doesn't demote from the fact that we have the land, it is ours to develope, and there COULD be some potential (probably not though)
No, Serenity and Deep End are not among the best crags. Monastery has 3 good 5.12's, a good 11 and a great 5.8 hand crack. No offense, but you are dropping internet shit bombs on a lot of people's hard work and time based on very little actual knowledge. Poor form. What compels you to shit talk anyway? Pleasure? Ego?