Magnum Opus beta

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Magnum Opus beta

Postby eduard » Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:41 pm

I had a lot of trouble finding a clipping position for the 3rd bolt last weekend and would appreciate some beta. Do people clip it from the crimp where her left hand (I hope I'm remembering correctly and the last bolt she has clipped in the picture is the 3rd bolt) is or is there better beta?

Image
eduard
Gumby
Gumby
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Postby eduard » Mon Oct 27, 2014 3:40 pm

Not sure why I can't reply to PM's, but I got a PM asking if 3rd bolt is the one before the ledge - no that's the 4th bolt, and I'm ok clipping that one (from the ledge).
eduard
Gumby
Gumby
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Postby XplosionOflaver » Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:04 pm

I either clip from the crimp rail before the move out to the under-cling( from below), or clip after the under-cling move on the two pockets (waist high)
User avatar
XplosionOflaver
Gumby
Gumby
 
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 6:27 pm
Location: On a mission to civilize

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Postby eduard » Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:56 pm

I actually wasn't using the undercling and was instead going right hand to crimp above the bolt, then left hand up to a ticked slopey hold higher and left then moving right to the crux sequence, but I'll keep that beta in mind this weekend, thanks!
eduard
Gumby
Gumby
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Postby eduard » Sun Nov 02, 2014 8:46 am

The heavily chalked pocket above the undercling worked really well for clipping, thanks! (I tried all the other suggested options and that worked best)
eduard
Gumby
Gumby
 
Posts: 8
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 6:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Postby MrFizz » Sun Nov 02, 2014 9:43 am

Like my dad always told me when I started leading "When in doubt, run it out."
What would crush with Arnold's tank?
MrFizz
Gumby
Gumby
 
Posts: 21
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:13 am
Location: In the dumpster behind Mcdonalds


Return to Sport

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron