Omaha Beach - beta request

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Omaha Beach - beta request

Postby Ally Smith » Tue Jul 21, 2015 9:59 am

Hi folks.

I'm planning on visiting the Red this autumn and fancy going BIG on a project whilst i'm there, and i want to maximise my chances, hence the beta request.

I did BOHICA this May and looking left and right both Transworld Depravity and Omaha Beach look excellent. I belayed a mate when he did Transworld and he's given me a good breakdown of what to expect, and pointed me at some videos online too.

Omaha Beach is the one i'm struggling to get more info on: RRCGuide/?type=route&id=810

From what i've gathered so far; 5.12 to the start of the roof? Stamina territory through the steepness to a boulder problem to get stood up on the sandy break

- How hard is the stamina section? 13a, or harder? Are there any shake-outs along the way?
- How hard is the boulder problem - should i be training techy heel hooks, or front on edge burling?
- How hard is the headwall? 12, 13?
- Are there any videos of Omaha Beach online? (Only one i could find is of someone taking a monster victory whipper from the chains)

Thanks in advance, Ally
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Re: Omaha Beach - beta request

Postby Cromper » Tue Jul 21, 2015 3:04 pm

Contact Dru Mack
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Re: Omaha Beach - beta request

Postby MrFizz » Tue Jul 21, 2015 5:19 pm

Squeeze hard and scream a lot
What would crush with Arnold's tank?
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Re: Omaha Beach - beta request

Postby dustonian » Tue Jul 21, 2015 6:35 pm

Traverse over and lay down on the ledge for at least 4 or 5 hours
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Re: Omaha Beach - beta request

Postby tbwilsonky » Wed Jul 22, 2015 10:18 am

plan on pretty much every crux in the Red being squared up edge yanking. to this end, train simple moderate movements punctuated by short cruxes on slopey crimps. that said, you'll learn more on your scouting burn than reading 15 pages of other people's beta.

good luck!
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