belaying through both parts of your harness

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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby milspecmark » Wed Dec 09, 2015 9:42 am

I never even thought about tri axle loading, makes alot of sense.
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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby steep4me » Wed Dec 09, 2015 10:50 am

Triaxial loading primarily is a concern with anchor set ups. The tie in parts of he harness touch when you use them to belay, so it essentially serves as one point. Triaxial loading doesn't happen automatically just because you have tree points--the points have to be separated and pulling in three different directions to cause an issue.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby DrRockso » Wed Dec 09, 2015 2:17 pm

After trying the tie-in points at the gym last night I can't believe you guys think that is less awkward than going through the belay loop! I think if you forced yourself to use the belay loop for a couple weeks (using the newest Petzl method) then you would be sold on it.
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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby LK Day » Sat Dec 12, 2015 11:03 pm

You could attach another super short loop to your belay loop and that would reorient the Grigri to the orientation your prefer. It would place the device maybe an inch away from the built in belay loop, but it doesn't seem like that would be a big problem. Know how to tie a water knot in 1" webbing?
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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby Ascentionist » Thu Jan 07, 2016 2:57 pm

My first harness was a BD Bod. It had no belay loop. When I bought my next harness (a Misty Mtn I think) I avoided using the loop because 1) it seemed less strong, and 2) I wasn't used to the configuration. After seeing a belay loop tested at the MM shop I was sold on the strength of belay loops and started using it and have been using it ever since. As a side note, the belay loop I saw tested wasn't sewn together, only looped into the standard configuration and held in place with packing tape. It held far more than was needed just from the friction of the nylon alone. Anyway, it didn't take long to get used to the change in rope direction and I never had a problem with an unsafe belay because of the change. I will say my use of a Gri-gri is minimal and my preferred device is an ATC-ish device. Still, I never had a problem using a Gri-gri.

I have noticed tri-axial loading when I've worn a harness that didn't have a belay loop and when others have belayed from both points. I think even with a biner that tries to prevent crossloading there is the potential for tri-axialism or tri-axialist tendencies.
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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby milspecmark » Tue Dec 20, 2016 12:56 pm

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Re: belaying through both parts of your harness

Postby ynot » Sun Jan 01, 2017 11:01 pm

lever getting caught in the belay loop explains why so many people decked when the gri gri first became popular. there were plenty climbers arguing against its use at all but it was just too popular with sport climbers. I sold mine in an effort to lighten my rack. an atc just isn't as heavy.
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