Gear

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

Re: Gear

Postby Jeffrey Brown » Tue Mar 22, 2016 2:50 pm

PM sent Clifton.
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Re: Gear

Postby BostonHammock » Fri May 20, 2016 2:09 pm

Not on the list:

Two 60 cm Slings or a PAS for cleaning the anchor, with 2 biners (lockers are safer, but many opt for non-lockers because of the redundancy. My personal opinion is two sling: use non-lockers. PAS: use at least 1 locker and clip one of the draws from your anchor to the pas as a secondary before being taken off belay).

Tube device for belay/rappel. Grigri's are nice, but over rated. And then you're carrying two devices.

Some climbs in your grade range may need more than 10-12 draws, depending on how close it's been bolted. You'll be climbing higher than 40-50ft pretty quickly. It's nice to be able to make an anchor from slings, so I'd suggest at least two non-locker's, an additional locker, and a 120cm or two 60cm slings.
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Re: Gear

Postby OMP » Sat May 21, 2016 5:22 pm

I recommend the guys at KRAG for guide service.. They're great!

If you decide not to use a guide service, you better get a guide book and pick a location with plenty of climbs in the range you want.

Good luck!
Emphasis on safety!
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Re: Gear

Postby Josephine » Tue May 24, 2016 8:17 am

BostonHammock wrote:Not on the list:
Tube device for belay/rappel. Grigri's are nice, but over rated. And then you're carrying two devices.


This makes no sense at all. He wants to climb 40-50ft sport climbs not multipitch trad. Since when do you need to carry your Gri Gri up with you when you climb? And it's sport climbing in the gorge where the vast majority of people don't rappel anyway so they're not even carrying one device when climbing let alone two.

Personally, I take my Gri Gri with me on multi pitch trad. I prefer it ever since a friend of mine was belaying someone else and the leader dislodged a rock when he fell. The rock hit my friends helmet and it stunned him - no serious damage to him at all - but his hand came off the break in the accident. The Gri Gri saved the leaders life. Odds of that happening are super small, but why worry over a few extra ounces on a giant trad rack when it could be a life or death situation?
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun
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Re: Gear

Postby DrRockso » Tue May 24, 2016 9:14 am

Not the person in Josephine's story, but I am probably only alive because my partner was using a grigri when he and I were struck by an object while we were 1900 feet up on a multipitch. Gri Gri's are certainly not over rated IMO, I would however recommend a beginner start with an ATC.
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Re: Gear

Postby BostonHammock » Thu May 26, 2016 4:53 pm

Sorry, by over rated I really was reffering to the gumby attitude of "it's the only safe way to belay". Of course it's a useful tool for expirienced climbers.

By carry two devices I meant you need to pack them in, then play the switch up game with what's on your harness, etc. I've seen people accidentally go up without an atc, intending to rappel. Creates a dangerous situation because you have to change plans with your partner while at the anchors. Maybe not much of an issue for 50ft climbs though.

I also advocate rappelling over lowering off fixed gear, so...there you go.
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