Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Post Reply
boxer141c
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:28 pm

Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by boxer141c » Sun Apr 10, 2016 2:00 pm

I am preparing for my first outdoor climb at Red River and I really don't know what I am getting into. The shop I climb at has provided me with a "what you need" list but that's as far as I have gotten. With that being said forgive me if this has been asked a million times. I am traveling from St. Louis and wanted to do some sport climbs. I know red river has a ton of climbs so I am looking for climbs that an outdoor beginner can work on. On an indoor climb I can complete most V3s and 5.10's. So I wanted to know where is the most convenient place to stay that is close to the area of climbs that me and my climbing partner will be able to climb. I am wanting to do long amazing climbs that will make the trip unforgettable. I just don't know where to stay or where to go. Once again sorry if this has been asked already

aldenbrom
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 7
Joined: Mon Dec 14, 2015 1:03 am

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by aldenbrom » Sun Apr 10, 2016 4:02 pm

Get the guidebooks and you'll have all the info you need for routes in your grade and how to get to them. Preferably climb with an experienced partner. Please don't fall off some anchors and die or hurt yourself rappelling improperly. Don't do any tasks for the first time when you're 80' in the air. Learn to clean routes on some practice anchors like at Muir valley. Make sure you follow rules posted at crags and listed in guidebooks. Make sure you donate to RRGCC, Muir Valley, Access Fund etc where appropriate; You'd pay to climb in a gym, make sure you support the people maintaining this great access for us.

boxer141c
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:28 pm

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by boxer141c » Mon Apr 11, 2016 7:47 am

Thank you for the information. Where can I purchase a guide book and any recommendations on a place to stay? Planning on leaving in 6 weeks and staying a weekend

User avatar
milspecmark
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 418
Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:46 pm
Location: Dayton, OH

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by milspecmark » Mon Apr 11, 2016 8:10 am

Do you want to camp, stay in a cabin, or hotel? If camping, I recommend Koomer Ridge campgroundhttp://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/dbnf/recreation ... 2&actid=29 . Climbing at Muir Valley is a great place for beginners. You can also look at the online guide book on this website if you dont want ot buy the book. But having the book is still recommended to have on the day of the climb.

User avatar
Willy
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 177
Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:49 pm
Location: Murica

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by Willy » Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:25 am

Miguels is the quintessential climber campground and I would highly recommend hiring a guide if you're new to outdoor climbing and want to make the most out of your trip.

www.torrentfalls.com

www.miguelspizza.com

DrRockso
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 140
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:59 pm
Location: Northern Kentucky
Contact:

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by DrRockso » Mon Apr 11, 2016 10:47 am

Also kragky.com and redriveroutdoors.com

boxer141c
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:28 pm

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by boxer141c » Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:44 pm

Every ones information is greatly appreciated and helpful. Thank you

boxer141c
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2016 1:28 pm

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by boxer141c » Mon Apr 11, 2016 3:47 pm

I'm going to look into the camping but are there any hotels close to Muir Valley?

User avatar
milspecmark
Lame Wade
Lame Wade
Posts: 418
Joined: Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:46 pm
Location: Dayton, OH

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by milspecmark » Mon Apr 11, 2016 4:20 pm


DrRockso
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 140
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2010 3:59 pm
Location: Northern Kentucky
Contact:

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by DrRockso » Mon Apr 11, 2016 7:25 pm

The hostel at Skybridge Station is the closest 'hotel' to Muir.

BostonHammock
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 34
Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:19 pm

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by BostonHammock » Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:37 am

Here's my advice:

1) Go with someone who is experienced, can lead for you, and teach you what you need to know (even if you think you already know it). Hire a guide if you don't have an experienced partner!. I wouldn't be leading my first time out on real rock. It's a very different experience than the gym.

2) Climb below your grade. Route finding, and recognizing holds can be a challenge when transitioning from gym climbing. You probably wont be climbing 10's, but there's lots of good 5.7-5.9 routes that should be doable for you on TR.

3) Learn how to a) clean an anchor, b)set up a safe, backed up rappel before you arrive! Don't lower, or top rope, off the anchors!



I highly recommend Muir Valley. Make sure to sign a waiver online, and have $10 cash for parking. There are a lot of really nice sport routes you should be able to climb. I like to bring new climbers to the Land Before Time wall. It has some shorter "warm up" 5.7 and 5.8 climbs that can be a bit challenging to start on the LH side, and two really fun 5.9's and a really good 5.8+ (one of the 5.9's has the anchors on a ledge. I don't recommend top roping this, but belaying from the top). Spend some time practicing anchoring in, cleaning, and setting up rappel on an anchor at the base of the wall.

After that head down to Bruise Brothers. It will be crowded. I recommend Ohio Climbing (not in the guide book) as a short, but fun 5.8, then Send Me On My Way (right next to Ohio Climbing) for a fun 75ft 5.9-.

OMP
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 12
Joined: Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:36 pm

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by OMP » Sat May 07, 2016 11:03 pm

Closest campground to Muir Valley is Fincastle. It's on Muir Valley entry road.

Jeffrey Brown
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 15
Joined: Fri Jan 29, 2016 5:04 pm
Location: Louisville, KY

Re: Preparing for my first outdoor climb

Post by Jeffrey Brown » Tue May 17, 2016 2:06 pm

So, it looks like your trip is right around the corner. You still coming down?

Post Reply