Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

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ghuffster
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Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

Post by ghuffster » Mon Apr 10, 2017 10:56 am

The online guidebook comments on Darling Dirtbag 5.8 R (Trad) note the newly-bolted route, also just before the rockhouse, bolted by Joe Leismer. Does anyone have a name & grade for this?

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Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

Post by climb2core » Mon Apr 10, 2017 1:20 pm

My Way or the Highway. 5.9

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Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

Post by joe leismer » Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:17 pm

Sent the route info to Ray. My Way or the Highway. Had several people climb it with a 5.9 consensus. Route is open for climbing, 80 feet, high foot start with bulges and slab towards the top. Spent a lot of time cleaning the route and will be an ongoing endeavor. Hope people enjoy it, cleared some ground area for the belayer and those walking by. Beware of friction if you top-tope.

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Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

Post by joe leismer » Mon Apr 10, 2017 8:20 pm

Sent the route info to Ray. My Way or the Highway. Had several people climb it with a 5.9 consensus. Route is open for climbing, 80 feet, high foot start with bulges and slab towards the top. Spent a lot of time cleaning the route and will be an ongoing endeavor. Hope people enjoy it, cleared some ground area for the belayer and those walking by. Beware of rope friction if you top-tope.

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Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

Post by ghuffster » Tue Apr 11, 2017 10:00 am

Thanks for the responses. Nice route, Joe. Thanks for your efforts in setting it and cleaning it up. We really enjoyed the climb. Solid 9, interesting start, nice and tall, and the slab at the top mixes up the terrain nicely. Some small stuff on the lower, vert section was breaking off; but it seemed like a normal part of the breaking-in process. It makes a great addition to the crag.

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Re: Newly-bolted route at Chica Bonita - Name & Grade?

Post by joe leismer » Wed Apr 12, 2017 5:22 pm

Thank you for your feedback.

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