Cleaning Anchors

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Guest

Post by Guest » Tue Nov 18, 2003 5:38 pm

pigsteak wrote:sandy, what me..trolling? never.... :wink:

the thread asked how people clean sport routes. that's what I am addressing.
I use two lockers on multipitch trad.

Feeling safe is a relative process as we all know. reverse and oppose used to be the accepted standard "in the day", so I wouldn't call it unsafe.
hahaha! I thought this thread was posted under trad - so I was wondering why it said "sport routes." Can I blame it on the pain killers?

User avatar
ynot
Trad Grandaddy
Posts: 6431
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 9:02 pm
Location: the corner of Walk and Don't Walk
Contact:

Post by ynot » Tue Nov 18, 2003 5:39 pm

I rarely ever need to clean.I dont do sport much so most times I am improvising some sort of rap. Don't worry I still remember how T Frye taught me to do it. I use 2 slings,lockers if I have them and clip the rope to something. I like the idea of using daisies.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

User avatar
Jeff
Be nice to me. I won.
Be nice to me.  I won.
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 2:40 pm
Location: Hangin

Post by Jeff » Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:06 pm

I get to the draws and start crying.
Usually Theresa will say "Ok ya big baby, just let me lower you and I will clean them myself :twisted: ".
When that doesn't work I clip into either available links on chains, rings, anchors, or the top biner of the draws used for tr'ing (It all depends on what's there) using 2- 2ft. runners. No lockers, opposite and opposed on my belay loop.
Yell, "I'm off" or "Off Belay" or "I'm in the anchors".
Unclip the rope from the draws used to set up a TR.
Pull up maybe 8' of rope, tie a figure eight on a bite and clip it to one of the TR draws, or girth hitch to one.
Untie my end of the rope and thread it through the anchors, rings or chains.
Re- tie if lowering, or start crankin' away if I'm rappin'.
Then undo the 8 or girth and get back on belay for a lower or get on rappell and test the system with body weight.
Claen all the draws and head on down.

Andrew
Happy Tee Hee
Posts: 3814
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 5:40 pm
Location: Cinci

Post by Andrew » Tue Nov 18, 2003 6:21 pm

I use draws cause I lost my slings and I am too poor to buy new ones.
Living the dream

Gretchen
IGNORE ME!
Posts: 2064
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 9:16 am
Location: Mommyland

Post by Gretchen » Tue Nov 18, 2003 7:48 pm

Usually draws but sometimes I use daisy chains.
Just genuinely disengenuous.

kentuckysarah
Lightweight
Posts: 512
Joined: Mon Mar 24, 2003 9:48 am
Location: Lexington
Contact:

Post by kentuckysarah » Wed Nov 19, 2003 12:50 am

I use a sling and a draw. Hopefully this week I'll have time to get a daisy chain and locker so I'll be a little safer. Definately the daisy chain so I can adjust the length.
We're all in this together
Walkin' the line between faith and fear
This life don't last forever
When you cry I taste the salt in your tears.

Old Crow Medicine Show

wanderer
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 47
Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2003 10:46 pm
Location: Evansville, Indiana

Post by wanderer » Wed Nov 19, 2003 2:03 am

Got tired of the bulky 2' slings and use 2' cords now girthed to my harness. I've been using lockers, but will probably switch to regular biners soon. No question this can handle a meager 166lbs of static weight which ends up being 83lbs per safety line. I've seen a few people use quickdraws for their anchor safety, but that's too short for my six foot frame, too bunched up.

canadaclimbergirl
Hoochie Power
Posts: 742
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 3:15 pm
Location: in the east of the great white north

Post by canadaclimbergirl » Wed Nov 19, 2003 11:03 am

speaking of all of this...

How is this for 'anal retentive on safety'.

On my harness at all times is a large Pear shaped locker that has on it two short cordelettes that are suitable for prussiks, klymheists etc, a plastic whistle, and a serated edge jack knife.

the two cordelettes and locker are what is needed to escape a belay, the knife is there should I ever need to escape a system, and the whistle is to call for help. I also use a klymheist on a long rapell, so I have the cordelette always on me. :)
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

Christian
Dharma Punk
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 9:57 am
Location: Evansville, IN

Post by Christian » Wed Nov 19, 2003 2:19 pm

I think being anal on safety is a good thing. Good ideas ccg!
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu

merrick
Cover Boy
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 6:01 pm
Location: Washington DC
Contact:

Post by merrick » Wed Nov 19, 2003 2:34 pm

i have all those things on my harness except for the knife. plus a nut tool. but i usually take that stuff off when i am sport climbing.
Back from the Dead!

User avatar
Jeff
Be nice to me. I won.
Be nice to me.  I won.
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 2:40 pm
Location: Hangin

Post by Jeff » Wed Nov 19, 2003 2:49 pm

But you DO carry your pom-poms, right?

canadaclimbergirl
Hoochie Power
Posts: 742
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 3:15 pm
Location: in the east of the great white north

Post by canadaclimbergirl » Wed Nov 19, 2003 2:58 pm

merrick wrote:i have all those things on my harness except for the knife. plus a nut tool. but i usually take that stuff off when i am sport climbing.
I always carry a nut tool when trad climbing..but not when sport climbing. However, the other knife etc stay on my harness at all times.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

Johnny
The King
Posts: 580
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 5:28 pm

Post by Johnny » Wed Nov 19, 2003 6:49 pm

One draw and thread a bite through, overhand figure 8 to a locker, and lower with a big tail-- unless I don't think I'll have enough rope, then I'll retie.
One hint: Clip your hanging draw to one of the existing draw's top biner. It's safe enough and keeps the path clearer to thread the rope through the rings/links. If it still doesn't fit, I'll just take the loose draw off (the one I'm not hanging on), thread, reclip, move me to other draw, take the second draw off, thread, then reclip. Not especially safe, but I don't mind the danger. It beaks hangin' on hooks, eh Rhino?

canadaclimbergirl
Hoochie Power
Posts: 742
Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 3:15 pm
Location: in the east of the great white north

Post by canadaclimbergirl » Wed Nov 19, 2003 8:16 pm

uhh...clip a beener to a beener??? unless they both lock...I would NEVER.
How about clip your beener into the sling on the draw....now that is more like it!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

Wes
Believer
Posts: 5180
Joined: Thu Sep 19, 2002 11:46 am
Location: Torrent!
Contact:

Post by Wes » Wed Nov 19, 2003 8:23 pm

Biner to biner is fine, as long as you aren't going to fall on them. I, and several others, do this when cleaning or hanging sometimes. And we haven't lost anyone yet.

There are *rules* that some people just blindly follow without understanding why. It is better to know the why, then make a judgement as to weather or not they apply. Like biner to biner, or "single point of failure". These things get passed on as the law, when they are just guidelines. Free your mind from what you have been told, and understand why it was said.


Wes
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

Post Reply