Cleaning Anchors

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Artsay
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Cleaning Anchors

Post by Artsay » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:34 pm

When you're cleaning anchors on a sport route (hanging), what's your safety setup? Do you have a sling attached to you with a locking biner to anchor into the anchors with.? Or do you use quick draws? Do you hang on one safety or two?
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Post by Guest » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:39 pm

I use 2 daisies and lockers. Does that mean I can't climb with Team Safety anymore?

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Post by tsparks » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:41 pm

I always use one sling with a locker AND a quickdraw. I'm always super paranoid when I'm cleaning a route so I like to have two points of contact and triple check all of my knots and stuff.
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Post by dhoyne » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:42 pm

Two slings girth hitched to my harness and clipped into the anchors. I'll only use draws if I forget the slings.
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Post by merrick » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:49 pm

one daisy chain with a locker. I attach it to one bolt and I use one of the draws on the anchor to attach to my daisy as redundency.

i also will use the rope tied to a locker attached to a belay loop trick to hold the rope if the draws are still on. an extra level of security i guess. i haven't lowered with it since that girl decked a few years back when she attached it to gear loop accidentally. but maybe i will start doing that again. i will just double check that i am in my belay loop.
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Post by Yasmeen » Tue Nov 18, 2003 2:56 pm

dhoyne wrote:Two slings girth hitched to my harness and clipped into the anchors. I'll only use draws if I forget the slings.
I do the same. I've also started rapping down instead of lowering.
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Post by Meadows » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:01 pm

I just use 2 draws. Should I use a sling instead?

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Post by Guest » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:09 pm

I like using the daisies (girth hitched to my belay loop) because I can adjust the length for my comfort, depending on the route/anchors. I never take them off my harness so I can never forget them. I feel much safer using locking biners, so using draws wouldn't give me warm fuzzies. Cleaning the anchors and then rapelling - which I always try to do as opposed to lowering - is the most dangerous part of climbing in my mind and I don't think you can be too careful.

If you do use daisies, make sure you understand not to connect to 2 loops!

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Post by GWG » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:10 pm

I use a sling attached to one of the anchors with a locker. Before untying the rope, I feed a byte through the rings/chain and then tie a figure 8 with it. This gets attached via a locker to my belay loop. At this point, I then untie my knot and pull the end of the rope through and retie back into my harness where I had untied it. I then undo the locker and untie the figure 8 on a byte and give the slack back to my belayer. Once I have double checked my knot and weighted it, I then undo my sling.

By doing this, I am never off the rope. There is always rope passing from the belayer through the anchors to me.

It might take a little more time but I like having the added security of always being tied in.

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Post by SCIN » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:10 pm

28 slings and a Master Lock joining two locking biners.
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Post by merrick » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:10 pm

so how do people attach the rope to themselves when rappeling instead of lowering.

the way i do it is annoying. I pull up ten feet of rope and attach it to biner attached to me. then i untie and thread the anchors. I pull the rope until i hit the part attached to me. then i tie the end i thread through the anchors to myself. then untie the initial point where it was attached. then i pull the rope through the anchor until i hit the halfway point and toss.

there has to be a better way to do this. i don't like having to tie and untie so many knots, but i also don't want to accidentally drop the rope, or even have a chance of that happening....

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Post by rmcfall » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:13 pm

Would save you some work if you just stopped after the step where you untie your knot and pull the end of the rope through, and just lower off your figure eight on your biner.
GWG wrote:I use a sling attached to one of the anchors with a locker. Before untying the rope, I feed a byte through the rings/chain and then tie a figure 8 with it. This gets attached via a locker to my belay loop. At this point, I then untie my knot and pull the end of the rope through and retie back into my harness where I had untied it. I then undo the locker and untie the figure 8 on a byte and give the slack back to my belayer. Once I have double checked my knot and weighted it, I then undo my sling.

By doing this, I am never off the rope. There is always rope passing from the belayer through the anchors to me.

It might take a little more time but I like having the added security of always being tied in.

GWG

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Post by merrick » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:13 pm

gwg, what do you do if you can't fit a bite of rope through the anchors? is this any more redundent than any other method of connecting using two slings/daisys/draws/etc?? i can't see why it would be?
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Post by Guest » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:16 pm

Merrick, when you are attaching the rope to yourself to prepare for rapping, just use a simple overhand on a bite - takes 1 second. I do it pretty much the way you describe, only I don't untie it from the draw attached to my harness until I've pulled a bunch of rope out so there is no chance of it whipping back through the anchors. Of course I'm paranoid. I also hate being lowered.

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Post by GWG » Tue Nov 18, 2003 3:22 pm

You're right, it's not any more reduntent. I guess it's just going with what I was taught and feel comfortable with. Last thing anyone should do is try something new or don't feel good about when you're 80' off the deck.

If I can't fit the byte through, then I clip into the second anchor with a draw, tie an 8 on a byte and attach it to my harness. Untie and feed it through, retie and then undo the 8 on a byte. Clean the gear and lower down.
there has to be a better way to do this. i don't like having to tie and untie so many knots, but i also don't want to accidentally drop the rope, or even have a chance of that happening....
I too would love to hear how others do this. I do the same thing you described when I'm rapping down.

By the way, great way to share ideas and seeing if there are better ways of doing things.

Thanks,

GWG

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