Rappelling or lowering off?

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Post Reply

In single pitch crag climbing, like most of the climbing done here in the Red, after cleaning the anchor, do you prefer to rap off or be lowered off?

I prefer to rappel off.
43
51%
I prefer to be lowered down.
41
49%
 
Total votes: 84

Rizzo
More lives than a cat
Posts: 46
Joined: Tue Nov 16, 2004 9:35 pm
Location: Nesting on RRG crags

Rappelling or lowering off?

Post by Rizzo » Wed Jan 19, 2005 3:00 pm

After lots of discussion of the pros and cons of rappelling versus lowering off after cleaning an anchor, I'm curious. What is your preference?
Life is too important to be taken seriously. - Oscar Wilde

Meadows
Puppy Pimp
Posts: 5425
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:03 pm
Location: Singing in the sunshine - laughing in the rain

Post by Meadows » Wed Jan 19, 2005 3:14 pm

I really like rappeling, but I find it easier just to lower off. That way, I can quickly get on another route. :mrgreen:

I can see where rappeling takes weight off the anchors, but is it such a significant difference? I didn't finish reading all the thread.
Last edited by Meadows on Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

quicksilver
Gumby
Gumby
Posts: 82
Joined: Thu Sep 11, 2003 11:58 pm

Post by quicksilver » Wed Jan 19, 2005 3:20 pm

To me it often depends on who I am climbing with. Having decked from 35 feet a couple of years back I am somewhat apprehensive if the belayer is not a long time partner. This past fall I was climbing in a group with an Israeli couple. Having completed a climb at left flank I opted to rap because I found it difficult to communicate clearly with the very nice Israeli woman and to be honest just could not get comfortable. We had all spent a couple of days climbing together and she was upset that I did not trust her skill as a belayer. Felt bad for upsetting her. In the end I just did not want to take the chance. Also it gives the belayer a chance to relax and really is not much more time consuming. Each to his own.
"If you smile at me I will understand
Because that is something everybody, everywhere does in the same language"
Crosby,Stills and Nash - Wooden Ships

usccabum1985
Whiney Bitch
Posts: 111
Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 5:46 pm
Location: In my forbiden garden
Contact:

Post by usccabum1985 » Wed Jan 19, 2005 3:33 pm

I prefer to rap. My only gripe with it is trying to clean a overhung climb. I can get most climbs however more than 15degrees and I ant getin my draws back. Quite honistly if the climb is steep Ill lower, but it makes me feal dirty, I can remember what the old anchors on fuzzy were like, scarry as hell to lower on. ( give me tips for raping of a steep climb and giting your draws back) :oops:
Kali Mist grows into tall, running, classically sativa plants with very few leaves. This strain produces dense clusters of full fluffy buds, producing much higher yields than you would expect.

User avatar
Toad
Gash Baiter
Posts: 618
Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2004 12:41 pm

Post by Toad » Wed Jan 19, 2005 3:52 pm

I hate to rap. I can never remember my rhymes.

overhung
Masochist
Posts: 1301
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 5:18 pm
Location: LA - Lower Ashland

Post by overhung » Wed Jan 19, 2005 3:57 pm

quicksilver wrote:To me it often depends on who I am climbing with. Having decked from 35 feet a couple of years back I am somewhat apprehensive if the belayer is not a long time partner. This past fall I was climbing in a group with an Israeli couple. Having completed a climb at left flank I opted to rap because I found it difficult to communicate clearly with the very nice Israeli woman and to be honest just could not get comfortable. We had all spent a couple of days climbing together and she was upset that I did not trust her skill as a belayer. Felt bad for upsetting her. In the end I just did not want to take the chance. Also it gives the belayer a chance to relax and really is not much more time consuming. Each to his own.
Ditto.. got dropped a long time ago. If it's not someone I know well, then I rap.
I've had just about enough of this shit.

Gaar
CAPS LOCK
Posts: 305
Joined: Thu Apr 15, 2004 1:51 pm
Location: Sringdale / Moab
Contact:

Post by Gaar » Wed Jan 19, 2005 4:11 pm

FOR ME IT DEPENDS ON HOW STEEP THE CLIMB IS.
DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA HOW HARD IT IS TO CLEAN A STEEP ASS ROUTE ON RAP!! TRY CLEAING TWINKIE, OR SCAR TISSUE AND DANGROUS.
To me it often depends on who I am climbing with. Having decked from 35 feet a couple of years back I am somewhat apprehensive if the belayer is not a long time partner. This past fall I was climbing in a group with an Israeli couple. Having completed a climb at left flank I opted to rap because I found it difficult to communicate clearly with the very nice Israeli woman and to be honest just could not get comfortable. We had all spent a couple of days climbing together and she was upset that I did not trust her skill as a belayer. Felt bad for upsetting her. In the end I just did not want to take the chance. Also it gives the belayer a chance to relax and really is not much more time consuming. Each to his own.
BUT I ONLY LET PEOPLE BELAY ME WHO I KNOW, AND IF YOU HAVE SOME RANDOM PERSON BELAY YOU, YOU PROBABLY SHOULD BE DROPPED!
:lol:
"climb, fall, send, go home"

rhunt
Suspiciously French
Posts: 3202
Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 8:02 am
Location: Cbus

Post by rhunt » Wed Jan 19, 2005 4:27 pm

In my opinion..rapping is not as safe and that should be the bottom line. Now before everyone freaks out, let me explain.

actually the lurkist explains why in the other thread, I'll quote him

"....Adding in the steps while hanging at the anchor of clipping in, untying, threading the rope and then hooking up the rappel device and rapping down invites error. As we all know, there is not room for error here.
Strictly from a probability stand point adding in all of these steps and done over and over many times, eventually someone will make an error. Probably someone less experience. Tired, having difficulty with the knot, probably not clipping in right or hooking up the rappel device wrong. Anyway, the mistake will occur, someone decks and is really hurt if not dead.
It is the old adage of a chain is as strong....
Remove as many steps from the process to avoid one an error being made at one of those steps...."
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist

Meadows
Puppy Pimp
Posts: 5425
Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2003 12:03 pm
Location: Singing in the sunshine - laughing in the rain

Post by Meadows » Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:10 pm

Life is definitely worth more than a couple of chains.

User avatar
Toad
Gash Baiter
Posts: 618
Joined: Fri Oct 15, 2004 12:41 pm

Post by Toad » Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:13 pm

...
Last edited by Toad on Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

squeezindlemmon
59" Drill Bitch
Posts: 1452
Joined: Mon Apr 12, 2004 3:02 pm
Location: Carolinas
Contact:

Post by squeezindlemmon » Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:20 pm

I won't be a hypocrite and say that I rapped off every single route I've cleaned. But we're talking preference here, so I vote rapping off.

If someone does not have a clear mind, who's to say they can safely clean the route before asking the belayer to lower them? IMO, if you're less experienced, you shouldn't be cleaning in the first place. I think there is as much room for error in both cases. It's up to the individual.

Of course, there is also the factor of trusting your life to someone else instead of your own hands. If you can't trust yourself enough to be able to lower your own ass to the ground, how can you trust someone else to do it for you?
Emancipate yourself from mental slavery. None but ourselves can free our mind. ~Bob Marley

TradMike
BAM!
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 10:57 pm
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Contact:

Post by TradMike » Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:27 pm

All routes should have sacrificial quick links or rings so you can either rap or lower. Then you can do whatever is most comfortable for you without worrying about the permanent anchor wear. I prefer to rap and feel it’s safer. I know damn well that the system is good to go and don't have to rely on someone I may not know very well. You can even test it/weight it before you unclip. But, for steep routes you have to lower.

andy_lemon
Terminal n00b
Posts: 1566
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:22 pm
Location: INDIANA
Contact:

Post by andy_lemon » Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:13 pm

TradMike wrote:All routes should have sacrificial quick links or rings so you can either rap or lower.
Fact is, all routes don't. Even if they did, it is mighty bold to be calling $5 to $15 worth of gear, per route, sacrificial. You planning on replacing it when it does wear out?

If anyone is questioning the fact that hardware will wear at extremely rappid rates you should examine some of your local cold shunts... being top roped and lowered off of them they show signs of obvious wear. There is a reason the Weber's assigned route experts to Muir Valley, and there is a reason they do not use cold shunts... just guessing I would say the reason is because there is a large group of extremely lazy climbers (where did I get that idea?).

And what is the question with the inexperienced belayer...? You would trust someone to belay you as you go up but you wouldn't trust them to lower you?!?!
Not a bitch.

TradMike
BAM!
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 10:57 pm
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Contact:

Post by TradMike » Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:26 pm

andy_lemon wrote:And what is the question with the inexperienced belayer...? You would trust someone to belay you as you go up but you wouldn't trust them to lower you?!?!
You may not trust them period - either going up or down. Don't fall on the way up and lower yourself. I have taken newbies climbing and I just treat it as a no fall situation. Climbing guides do it every day.

TradMike
BAM!
Posts: 1173
Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 10:57 pm
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Contact:

Post by TradMike » Wed Jan 19, 2005 6:27 pm

And I have no problem replacing a worn link(s)

Post Reply