Bad Hybrid at Muir Valley: hold bolted on?!

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Bad Hybrid at Muir Valley: hold bolted on?!

Post by Sco Bro » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:37 am

Here we go, an ethics question for Monday. I climbed Bad Hybrid (5.6 sport) at Sunbeam in Muir. Someone bolted a piece of rock onto the climb to make it 5.6. I'm interested to see everyone's opinion. I think it's a poor, poor choice.

In my humble opinion (I don't bolt routes, I don't own the land), I think a climb should be left as is, as much as possible. Bolts are a necessary evil as they keep people from dying. If you can't do a route then leave it for someone who can. In the case of Bad Hybrid its goes clean. Stew, Jr. and I all did it yesterday; skipping the bolted hold the route probably goes 5.11a.

So, Stew, Jr. and I are renaming the clean version of the route: No strap-ons in my gorge.

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Post by dhoyne » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:42 am

It's been done without that hold before. I'm pretty sure I saw Weber did it.
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Post by J-Rock » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:44 am

I didn't use the hold either. It felt like a hard 5.10 move without the hold. Kind of a fingertip mantle/hand foot match to a long reach. (I heard that a woodrat bolted that route).
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Post by Christian » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:47 am

Isn't bolting a hold onto a route the same as chipping holds for a route. I thought the Red was a place where that wasn't done.
Wasn't this a big problem at City of Rocks in the 80's when Tony Yaniro and others manufactured routes by chipping and other travesties?
I think it has also been done at Jack's Canyon east of Flagstaff.
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Post by Sco Bro » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:50 am

Y, J-Rock that's the move. A fun, slabby, kinda of dicey maneuver off at little 2 finger pocket. Glad to see others have opted to not use the bolt on hold.

I have two particular problems with add on. Like I said earlier, leave the climb as is when possible. I don't think we want people chipping and drilling cool routes to make them all 5.6.

Second, bolting on a rock is only a temporary hold. The bolt will remain for years, but that rock is going to crack and then it's going to break on someone. If someone thinks its okay to add on hold, I don't agree, but at least come up with a permanent solution. A glue in rebar handle would be an eyesore, but would be there forever without needing to be replaced every 9 months.
.

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Post by Stewy911 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:52 am

if Weber did it without the "strap-on" then why even put the "Strap-on" on. I just don't get it. That damn thing will eventually bust off and someone will take a nasty spill. I vote remove the damn thing and keep the route natural. But like Sco said, we do not own or bolt on the land in muir valley but I think it should be put up to vote on whether to remove it or keep it.
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Post by Wes » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:53 am

Personally, I am more of a gray area kinda guy. If it is a one move 5.11, with it being 5.6 the rest of the route, then adding a hold doesn't seem like all that big of a deal to me. Chipping/drilling are worse, but I can still see times when it wouldn't be totally evil. The number one sin, though, is altering the route after the FA.
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Post by Stewy911 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:53 am

REMOVE THAT GOSH DAMN STRAP ON YOU MONKEYS!!!!!
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.

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Post by squeezindlemmon » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:54 am

No need to vote on anything Stewy, this thing was scheduled to come down already anyway.
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Post by Stewy911 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:01 am

sweet karla, thanks for the clarification. Can we call it "No Strap-ons" as suggested by Sco, Junior and I?
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.

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Post by squeezindlemmon » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:01 am

No.
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Post by Stewy911 » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:17 am

oh c'mon!
Who Me? I gotta hitch hike god damn 18 miles to get a god damn beer......that's bullshit.

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Post by squeezindlemmon » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:18 am

:lol:
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Post by Sco Bro » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:33 am

Come on Squeeze, we labored forever on the name. Other options were:

Jesus doesn't like strap-ons.

Strap-ons are for girls. (I know, not very PC).

Keep the strap-on in the bedroom.

Did anyone know that this rock was being bolted on to the climb, was that how it was proposed?

Wes, I respect your opinion and I wouldn't say there is no instance where you wouldn't add a hold. However, I don't think that because a climb is a one move wonder that it should be altered. Espresso comes to mind. I would prefer that the rating be lowered rather than butchering the rock to make it a consistent grade.

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Post by Ultra » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:40 am

what a bunch of girls
Do you like apples? Well, how do you like [b]THEM APPLES[/b]

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