Jugs

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
mcrib
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Post by mcrib » Mon Nov 28, 2005 3:43 pm

I like that.
"I just want to disappear"

captain static
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Post by captain static » Tue Nov 29, 2005 2:34 pm

pigsteak wrote:If it bothered you SCIN, then you put too much importance on whispers and spray. Next time, jump on an off width that the pre-teen has surely never been on.
That reminds me of the time I was at SBR and climbed "No Return" with TK. There were some kids next to us who flew up "Commencement". Then after TK & I got down, these kids hopped on "No Return". Never seen so much crack flailing in my life. It was kinda amusing, at least for couple of old trad heads like TK & I.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh

Power2U
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Post by Power2U » Tue Nov 29, 2005 11:37 pm

All that Shit is super Gay!
Did you do Convicted without the kneee Bar?
Golden Touch without the rest out left at the top?
Buda Hole with out the two Huecos?
Hot for Teacher / Tuskan Rader without climbing in the huecos?

Come on! The rest is there take it! If you feel like you need to try the route without the rest do that after you have done it with the rest, just for your own self satisfaction. I don't think taking an obvious rest "invalidates" (Whatever that means!) and ascent. All I do know is that if you fall above the obvious rest on a red-point or on-sight go you're an idiot!

Good luck on GT, SCIN.

BTW you should have come down, handed the kid the rope and said show me how it's done hot stuff. Odds are he couldn't get past the second bolt :wink:
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.

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pigsteak
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Post by pigsteak » Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:21 pm

power2u...

yes.
yes.
yes.

and, man is she ever hottttttttt.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

ninesixfour
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Post by ninesixfour » Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:49 am

Crack climbing version:
Hey! That face hold is out! You *have* to use the crack for that move! You placed too much gear! You *have* to run that part out and you're not allowed to wear tape on your left ring finger for that move because it makes the lock better!
Exactly. This gayness and ego exists in all of climbing, and all of sport for that matter. What do you care what someone else thinks of the way you climbed it? You're climbing for yourself, not for some silly boy. Do it however you want and call it a send whenever you feel like you sent it.

Toy
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Post by Toy » Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:24 am

Do it however you want and call it a send whenever you feel like you sent it.

As long as you don't "Seppuku" it.

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ynot
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Post by ynot » Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:53 am

I suspect the stupid rules are born from too much gym climbing.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney

Wes
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Post by Wes » Thu Dec 01, 2005 11:32 am

ynot wrote:I suspect the stupid rules are born from too much gym climbing.
Nope, there were way more stupid rules back in the days before gyms.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

JB
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Post by JB » Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:34 pm

agree with wes... they existed before gyms... but gyms make it worse... it saddens me to see the need for attaining "value" be so obvious in climbing. I think the whole rating system is what started it personally. We took our escape and made it just like what we were trying to escape from.

There is nothing like when you've been spotting/encouraging somebody on their project, then you stop to chat with somebody while the climber sends their project. The look on their face when they realize nobody witnessed the send is truly sad. To say I haven't fallen victim to this would be a lie as well... and so be it. Climbing is part of life... there will always be those who want to build themselves up by tearing you down.
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]

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Post by Lateralus » Thu Dec 01, 2005 12:38 pm

SCIN don't hate the sport! hate the climbers!
"Good things take time, impossible things take a little longer"
Percy Gerutty

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Toad
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Post by Toad » Thu Dec 01, 2005 2:32 pm

You should have hit him. Not so much because of his comment, but because he was acting as an ill mannered turd to someone that was older than he. He probably has been in need of an asswhipping for some time.

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Post by Danny » Thu Dec 01, 2005 5:12 pm

Ray you shoulda told him that you read in the new guide book that the jug was on for old folks.

mcrib
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Post by mcrib » Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:00 pm

Wes what stupid rules do you think existed before gym climbing. The phenomenon of outdoor eliminates comes straight from climbing gyms. People who spend all there time inside pumping eachothers egos came up with this shit. Not the old school trad climbers who just wanted to get to the top.
"I just want to disappear"

Wes
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Post by Wes » Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:03 pm

"Stupid" old school rules:

The leader must not fall.
You have to bolt from the ground up (if at all)
If you fall, you have to lower and pull the rope before trying again (no hangdoggin')
You have to be an appretnence for x number of years before you are allowed to lead.
There are tons more, esp. when you look at the mountianeering clubs rules from the 50's and 60's.
"There is no secret ingredient"

Po, the kung fu panda

JB
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Post by JB » Fri Dec 02, 2005 3:14 pm

and what about:

chalk is cheating!!
oh, you used climbing shoes... well then it's 8+, definitely not a 10.
friends? you're bringing climbing down bro. I sent it as a 5.11 with just nuts and hexes and a camlock... using jardines trickery makes it 5.2

i'm telling you, the problem comes from the introduction of ratings. if i can attach my value to a number, i will be seen as "worthy". gyms make it worse, but they didn't cause the problem.

(note: I run a gym)

JB
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]

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