Jugs

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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SCIN
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Jugs

Post by SCIN » Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:31 am

I was on Golden Touch yesterday and, just before the anchors, I scooted out left to the big jug ledge which just about intersects Buff the Wood. While resting, I heard some punk make a comment to his friend that I was off route. Unfortunately the kid was under 18 so I couldn't do the logical thing and beat his skinny ass.

Now I think this is the biggest gay-ass thing about sport climbing. When lines are put up and rests that one can reach within the limits of not facing a huge pendulum swing are "called out". This is the Red. There are way too many quality lines than to be trying to force a difficulty level by calling out enormous chunks of jutting sandstone.

Sometimes sport climbing is so gay that I'm embarrassed to be doing it.
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Post by calvinivlac » Sun Nov 27, 2005 12:23 pm

Is that because you're homophobic or just misinformed about doing a happy type of climbing?

I agree with your points about getting called out for no good reason, btw. Just not your comments about sport climbing being gay.

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Post by littlefeller » Sun Nov 27, 2005 1:56 pm

Its not that sportclimbing is gay,its the attitude(ego)that is gay.
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Post by KD » Sun Nov 27, 2005 2:16 pm

the under18 thing dosent count if ya beat him to death.

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Post by Ascentionist » Sun Nov 27, 2005 2:37 pm

No, its the gym climbing influence on the euro-sport climbing that is gay. I'm embarassed for you Ray.
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Post by DuppyC » Sun Nov 27, 2005 6:09 pm

I think it is gay that someone would say that the logical thing to do would be to beat someone up for saying you are off route. But, to each their own, you should've whacked him.
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Post by mcrib » Sun Nov 27, 2005 8:15 pm

Stupid little gym rats. Maybe you should put a piece of tape on it that has Golden Touch written on it.
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Post by pigsteak » Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:17 pm

stupid that you all jump to conclusions about the 18 year old...probably onsighted Golden Touch without the rest, AND solo-ed all your super gay "classic" dust bin trad lines.

If it bothered you SCIN, then you put too much importance on whispers and spray. Next time, jump on an off width that the pre-teen has surely never been on.

(Other than that, you are spot on.)
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Post by pigsteak » Sun Nov 27, 2005 9:18 pm

PS- Golden Touch is 12a with the jug.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Post by SCIN » Sun Nov 27, 2005 10:38 pm

Yea, I'm homophobic.
Man, there are other lines in the Red where people have actually called out resting in large body sized huecos. It's mostly by old dudes that are past their prime though. I was surprised to hear it from a young kid.
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uhhhh...that hold is off!

Post by roots » Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:11 pm

Ray, obviously you didn't see that there is yellow tape on that hold...oh well. Yeah, I've never understood calling a hold off-route if it is on. The first time I ever got Tuskan Raider someone told me that I wasn't allowed to rest in the hueco! What the F*&$? Call it .11d then! I think I'm going to puke!
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Post by 512OW » Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:36 pm

God its good to come back from 4 days of Southern crack climbing and read this.....
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Post by SCIN » Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:45 pm

Crack climbing version:
Hey! That face hold is out! You *have* to use the crack for that move! You placed too much gear! You *have* to run that part out and you're not allowed to wear tape on your left ring finger for that move because it makes the lock better!

Glad you had fun down South. I felt like hiding in the Lower Region when I heard that lode shit.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

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Post by dhoyne » Mon Nov 28, 2005 9:38 am

Give me a break. 'Off' holds outside? Off route should mean that you've wandered so far that it's dangerous. Not that there's a good hold that some clown didn't see when they climbed it. It ain't the gym...
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Post by ReachHigh » Mon Nov 28, 2005 2:50 pm

I just tell them, I'm working the variation.
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