Revival...the real way...

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
512OW
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Revival...the real way...

Post by 512OW » Mon Nov 28, 2005 2:38 am

Question....this is based on a post in the "Legend" thread...

Revival was always done by stickclipping and yarding up to the first bolt. I watched a French guy jump from the boulder and stick the crimps....and proceed to do the route.

Should he be credited with the FA, or should the route be rated 5.13 A0?

Just curious how the sporties feel about it....

And yes, I'm aware its closed....blah blah blah. Its just a question.
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Post by rhunt » Mon Nov 28, 2005 11:33 am

I've seem a few people do the campus moves off the boulder...
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Post by Eric » Mon Nov 28, 2005 12:19 pm

i did the campus start before realizing that others were hauling themself up to the first bolt. Then I was like, oh.
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Post by Ascentionist » Mon Nov 28, 2005 12:47 pm

Watched a guy from Austin hike the route and he just went off the boulder. I think he may have stick clipped the bolt for pro, but not to yard on.
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Post by Toy » Mon Nov 28, 2005 5:39 pm

Yarding all the way to the first bolt was never considered "the way", only aiding high enough to get on the first holds. Having said that, it has been done many times straight off of the boulder. Dave Hume used to do it that way and Jordi Salas did also.

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Post by pigsteak » Mon Nov 28, 2005 6:54 pm

there ya have it....5.13 off the boulder....5.13 AO if you even think about pulling up on the rope...(also an aid climb on ANY route that has cheater stones..you bunch of inept posers)
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Post by 512OW » Tue Nov 29, 2005 7:12 am

Ok....still doesn't answer the question...

I saw someone do it in 95 that way....and I've been told someone did it in 92 that way....but I was also told (and it could be bad information, cuz the source is questionable, but at the time he was THE guy in the Red) that Porter and Steve did it by yarding on the bolt.

Does anybody know that Porter did it from the boulder? He very well could have....I just don't know.
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Post by ninesixfour » Wed Nov 30, 2005 5:38 pm

Porter certainly couldn't reach the holds from the boulder because he's not tall enough. Having climbed with him quite a bit I can assure you he was strong enough at that time to do the moves from a straight arm position, whether or not it was via some step stones or the rope. I'm certain he would not have stooped to hauling himself all the way to the bolt, skipping several moves in the process.
As far as jumping off the boulder, is this really necessary? I don't think so. I can reach the holds from the boulder so if one has to use a stone to reach them, what's the difference? We're both starting the climb from the same position.

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Post by 512OW » Wed Nov 30, 2005 9:03 pm

I don't disagree with you.....but you can't make a long move easier while on route, so should you be able to make the first long move easier?

I don't know...

I'm just curious to know exactly what is accepted in the world of Red River sportclimbing....
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Post by Toy » Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:39 am

What was accepted with Revival is 'get your hands on the starting holds (the lowest holds) and go'. If that requires yarding, so be it. This is not making the first move easier. Everyone is still starting from the same initial holds. If you argue that this is somehow cheating, then standing on the boulder to make the "first move easier" is cheating also. Therefore , by that arguement, noone has done the route yet because everyone uses that giant cheater stone (boulder) to do the first move.

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Post by Paul3eb » Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:59 am

this thread still disappoints me. i was really psyched to think that odub might be heading a spiritual revival down by some river and there'd be lots of singing and dancing and dunking and gumbo.. until this is true, i will comment no further.
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Post by 512OW » Sun Dec 04, 2005 8:07 pm

Corporate Whore wrote:this thread still disappoints me. i was really psyched to think that odub might be heading a spiritual revival down by some river and there'd be lots of singing and dancing and dunking and gumbo.. until this is true, i will comment no further.
Thats a whole nother post...a secret one...

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Post by 512OW » Sun Dec 04, 2005 8:09 pm

Toy wrote:Therefore , by that arguement, noone has done the route yet because everyone uses that giant cheater stone (boulder) to do the first move.
Apparently all you boulderers are climbing on giant cheater stones.

It makes perfect sense though. Why bother stacking all those little flat rocks? Next time I go try Omaha Beach, I'll just roll a boulder under it and start off that. How bout the one from Sky Bridge? The Pearl would get more traffic over there....
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Re: Revival...the real way...

Post by sweetdaddyp » Sun Dec 04, 2005 10:52 pm

i originally had a wobbly stack of rocks on the boulder which allowed me to reach the crimps at a dead hang. i then cranked the boulder probem with marginal heel hooks, etc. i found the hard part at the top, though.

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Post by mcrib » Mon Dec 05, 2005 1:38 am

Yea attack Toy about using cheater stones. Dude can probably jump start better than any climber in the country. I'm guessing the volllyball helps.
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