Loose bolt on The Rising at Muir Valley

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Guest

Post by Guest » Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:49 pm

oh I think Solomon has it right

Guest

Post by Guest » Tue Mar 28, 2006 1:58 pm

okay, kidding aside... This thread kind of sucks. I tire of this stuff. Of course the developers at Muir and everywhere else at the RRG care about safety, and they will address these problems.

Just like everything else, there is a learning curve. This includes bolting and using loctite on quick links. I am sure these issues will all be addressed and I'm sure the developers all over the RRG want to hear about these kinds of problems.

Thanks to everyone who has the vision to see a nice line and who puts the time, energy, and money into bolting it. Thanks also to everyone who fixes things when they see problems. And as has been said so many times before, if you think something is unsafe, don't do it, and by all means, keep letting the landowners/bolters/whoever know so that the problem can be addressed.

We now return to our regularly scheduled programming...

Paul3eb
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Post by Paul3eb » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:02 pm

Sandy wrote:We now return to our regularly scheduled programming...
..not quite yet..
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins

Guest

Post by Guest » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:03 pm

I really meant 'wisecracking'...

bentley
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Post by bentley » Tue Mar 28, 2006 2:55 pm

See, 3 pages of crap, a waste of time.
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Post by Paul3eb » Tue Mar 28, 2006 3:01 pm

actually, bentley, good has come of it. if nothing else, i think people feel more comfortable posting about bolts they've noticed in a forum like this than they do pm'ing or emailing people. and if you go back, you'll see that muir is going to be doing a lot of look into some of the issues they may/may not be having in the area. and, if nothing else, people are a little more aware of it.

i'll post up those pictures you took in a few..
and great loves will one day have to part -smashing pumpkins

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Post by dhoyne » Tue Mar 28, 2006 3:36 pm

Sunshine wrote:
Climb trad, or give thanks that someone donated the money and time to set up the route in the first place. A simple email to any of the route setters to notify them is sufficient. Insulting the route setters by claiming that people are going to get hurt on their routes gets nothing done besides spreading panic.

I for one am grateful for all the hard work, time, and finances donated to those that are developing Muir Valley.
Explain to me how an immediate public notification of a very clear and present danger is insulting. This is a public notification by Terry Kindred "route setter" and fixer of routes: If anyone anywhere at anytime finds a loose bolt on a Team Suck route feel free to tighten it if you are in possession of this basic skill, if not, find someone who is. If all that fails make a public statement. I, nor any of my fellow "route setters" will be insulted.

Terry Kindred

Terry, would you find this insulting?:
"The guys that equipped that route suck. They are pansies so they added extra bolts." (exact quote from page 1)

I would. My whole point was just as I posted it, but I guess it was misinterpreted. A simple message stating the problem to the route setter avoids all this feces spewing.


...back to your regularly scheduled pissing match... (further proving my point)

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Post by Sunshine » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:07 pm

No! I suck! I am team leader of Team Suck. We suck! Having said that, those other assholes are really truly assholes! Everybody knows that real climbers hammer in those ......whatever they are called things.
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
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Post by ynot » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:21 pm

edited
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Post by Toad » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:26 pm

dhoyne,

What happens if somebody finds a bad piece of hardware and doesn't know who to contact, or how? What if they did contact the route maker person and that person doesn't get around to fixing it right away? How would I know about the bad gear if it's only a private post? What happens if I get on it and die? Then there would be true feces spewing when I hit the ground. How would you feel about that? I know I would feel badly about it - probably worse than the person with the bruised ego that had their loose bolt called out on this forum.

Let's protect everyone's feelings at all cost! That could be one of our ethics.
Victory Whip in da House. Yeah.

Guest

Post by Guest » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:29 pm

dhoyne wrote:
Sunshine wrote:
Climb trad, or give thanks that someone donated the money and time to set up the route in the first place. A simple email to any of the route setters to notify them is sufficient. Insulting the route setters by claiming that people are going to get hurt on their routes gets nothing done besides spreading panic.

I for one am grateful for all the hard work, time, and finances donated to those that are developing Muir Valley.
Explain to me how an immediate public notification of a very clear and present danger is insulting. This is a public notification by Terry Kindred "route setter" and fixer of routes: If anyone anywhere at anytime finds a loose bolt on a Team Suck route feel free to tighten it if you are in possession of this basic skill, if not, find someone who is. If all that fails make a public statement. I, nor any of my fellow "route setters" will be insulted.

Terry Kindred

Terry, would you find this insulting?:
"The guys that equipped that route suck. They are pansies so they added extra bolts." (exact quote from page 1)

I would. My whole point was just as I posted it, but I guess it was misinterpreted. A simple message stating the problem to the route setter avoids all this feces spewing.


...back to your regularly scheduled pissing match... (further proving my point)
oh I wish you could see the irony here... Solomon was just trolling. I'll leave it at that. Damn admin ethics!

Trust me, it's funny.

Guest

Post by Guest » Tue Mar 28, 2006 4:30 pm

Toad, please don't protect my feelings. Okay? :mrgreen:

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Post by SCIN » Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:01 pm

Public Service Announcement:
Rock Climbing can be dangerous

My friend from Germany laughs about the petty arguments concerning bolt jobs, etc. He climbs in Frankenjura where you are lucky to not have a chance of decking while clipping the anchors. Plus there are about 1000 times more lines in the hard (5.13-5.14) range than here.

I think we should remove half the bolts from each line in the Red to make things more exciting. Imagine how cool you would feel if each line you sent on a weekend involved the threat of groundfall? We could start speaking in British accents and calling this place Red River Grit.
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Post by weber » Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:05 pm

My first post didn't seem to go through, so here's another try at it. If this dual posts, I'll remove the duplicate. Sorry.
bentley wrote:Now low and behold the Weber’s have been beyond accommodating to allow us to climb on their amazing piece of property and unsafe situations are popping up all over the place.
I would ask posters to this forum to keep matters in perspective. I don't believe that unsafe situations are "popping up all over the place" at Muir Valley.

There are approximately 2400 bolted hanger brackets in Muir Valley on over 300 routes. We occasionally find loose bolts and we fix them. Others find loose bolts elsewhere in the region and they fix them. Bolts do not loosen because they were improperly installed. They loosen because the crumbling crap they are affixed to abrades away when we fall and torque the hangers. The more falls we take, the more the bolts loosen. The loose bolt reported that started this thread has seen a huge number of hangs and falls. It will soon be replaced with a FIXE 5.5-inch glue-in.

We at Muir Valley, NEVER EVER purposely make things dangerous for you down here. Any of you who are aware our testing of sandstone anchors know we are doing everything possible to reduce risk. But we can never completely remove it. If you don't want to accept the danger and take appropriate steps to mitigate the risk, then please stay the off the cliffs

Again, a huge THANK YOU to all of you who recognize the need to pull routine maintenance on fixed hardware in the RRG and put out tireless effort to do so.

Rick
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None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau

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Post by alien2 » Tue Mar 28, 2006 5:20 pm

It's the climbers taking falls be it voluntarily or not that are causing unsafe situations to pop up all over the place. They know when they have loosened a bolt and by not fixing it or notifying someone who can and will fix it, they are the ones to blame. That means just about everyone who has taken a fall is responsible.
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