Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
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I was reading the cool post from Rick Webber about their testing of glue-in bolts, and it got me thinking: What single bolt in the Red has taken the most lead falls? I'm talking about above-the-bolt falls, not for example, the bolt at the crux of Fuzzy Undercling, where you are basically level with the draw if you fall. I'm guessing that this would have to be a moderate route, so that lots of people get on it maybe an 11? I'd also guess that this would be with crux moves well above the bolt, so people don't just downclimb back to the bolt, but actually get up there and ping. What bolt has taken the most lead falls? How many would that be?
Bacon is meat candy.
- Harry (Dumb)
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I've seen a bunch on "In to the light" going for the chains but that hasn't been around all that long
- The Crocodile Hunter
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an 11 is moderate? man, I'm old. my guess...going to the chains on Chainsaw.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
- Maynard G. Krebs
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i'd guess it'd be on sunshine or moonbeam... whichever one is on the left... and toward the top. I've seen countless folks whip there.
[size=75]i may be weak, but i have bad technique[/size]
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Might be harder routes, so maybe fewer people on them, but they also get many goes a day. All in the running:
Crux bolts on gung ho, tissue tiger, table of colors, Bandoler, last bolt of wadcutter, last bolt on chainsaw, etc.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
- The Man
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I bet Ro Shampo is right up there to
- Undercover Deity
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I bet the last bolt on AWOL has taken quite a lot of falls.
try is not a command
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We should start logging all the falls on all the bolts. That way we will know for sure. We can keep a tin at the base of each climb just like a summit register!
So now you'd better stop and rebuild all your ruins,
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing-- Zep
- In Crust We Trust
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I think the bolts probably need to be replaced after every tenth fall. Unless, of course, they came unscrewed first. Dang, did I just say that?
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
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I think the bolt below the crux of Wild Yet Tasty sees it's share of action...
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the bolt below the crux is where I have seen a few falls on Bandolier. I have fallen several times there myself unfotunately.
- Sweaty McSweaterson
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To defy the laws of tradition.. going for the last bolt before the chains puts you 2-3 foot above the second to last bolt. The fall puts you just about back to the second bolt on the route. Easier route than most but popular.
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We can all contribute to generating data if we work together. Spreading out to first test rock quality by heaving loads onto individual bolts at crags all across the region, then when the bolts rip rigging them up to see what force it takes to pull them out of my tight 'as.
'really ?' -fluffy
- Look at Me!
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Pre last bolt of tissue tiger, or pre last bolt of tuna town
- Emmy Winner
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Sunshine wrote:We should start logging all the falls on all the bolts. That way we will know for sure. We can keep a tin at the base of each climb just like a summit register!
Nah the tins will get stolen, pissed in, or carted off by a wood rat.
I'm thinking little green hang tags on every bolt where we can mark when, how far, and why we fell. Just add an ink pen to our standard 'rack' of draws so we can log this importand info on each bolt's tag. Ohh and the tag should have the born on date of each bolt and exactly who placed it. Ahh and we can put red hand tags on the bogus bolts with sinny hangers. And uhh yellow tags on the tricky to clip bolts. Then we could........
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.