"Exciting" falls?

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Wes
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"Exciting" falls?

Post by Wes » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:02 am

While taking a 50 footer from the top of a nice long, steep route can get the blood flowing a bit, there are other much more "exciting" falls in the red. I have been lucky enough to take a couple of them, and was wondering what you all thought were routes with intresting falls.

Falling on the slab after the roof on Prime directive and going to the third bolt of Hen-ry are both pretty freaky. Any others?
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Post by Meadows » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:12 am

Well, you Mr. Wes convinced me to leave the anchors on Pulling Pockets unclipped and climb above them about 3 feet and whip. It became the thing to do for every time I got on the climb. I got on the route with Morgain one day and was oblivious to the fact that Terry had lowered the last bolt considerably in his retro-bolt effort.

I got to the top, let my feet cut and then met Morgain somewhere near the first bolt. :roll:

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Post by merrick » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:20 am

Yea I did the third bolt on Hen-ry. sliding down the slab and then spinning around the corner of the arete was certainly exciting.

It is also exciting when you are belaying and the person climbing yells "Rock" "Falling" "Rock" and is whipping and dropping a shoebox size of rock on you at the same time.
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Post by Stewy911 » Thu Aug 10, 2006 10:30 am

Ive seen some good ones on Hen-ry but I would have to say the Gift looks like it would have a potentially scary fall. I hav not been on it yet but was always curious to what that fall would be like.
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Post by rjackson » Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:23 am

Blow the fourth clip after the crux on Ro Shampoo and you'll be looking your belayer in the eyes.

While Bandolier seems tame, I've taken some big whippers from the top and ended up near the ledge at the bottom. While slightly overhung, you watch the rock zoom by your face pretty close. Had a toe stick once and did this sideways.

Took a big one while trying to clip the anchors on recoil, though not too scary ended up pretty low.
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Post by rjackson » Thu Aug 10, 2006 11:25 am

Blow the fourth clip after the crux on Ro Shampoo and you'll be looking your belayer in the eyes.

While Bandolier seems tame, I've taken some big whippers from the top and ended up near the ledge at the bottom. While slightly overhung, you watch the rock zoom by your face pretty close. Had a toe stick once and did this sideways.

Took a big one while trying to clip the anchors on recoil, though not too scary ended up pretty low.
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Post by mcrib » Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:32 pm

Haven't done it but I hear that blowing the anchors on the bottom of up yonder gets you pretty close to the ground.
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Post by Ballss » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:22 pm

mcrib wrote:Haven't done it but I hear that blowing the anchors on the bottom of up yonder gets you pretty close to the ground.
I had the "supported" drop on that route. I got stung by a wasp as I was clipping the chains and, startled, fell. My ass hit the ground but without all my weight. It sucked....but was quite exciting. =)
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Post by Stewy911 » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:23 pm

thats exciting
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Post by Don McGlone » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:26 pm

Those damn gri-gri belays...
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Post by Toy » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:34 pm

Back in the day before any of the routes in the cave went to the top, I climbed above the anchors of the Madness (for shits and giggles) to what is now the crux. I guess that would be the second or third bolt above the old anchor, can't remember. Anyway, I'm gettin' pumped and looking for some better holds, which either broke every time I grabbed them or just weren't there. Next thing I know I broke a foothold and came whipping off. After a big fall I come slammin back into the wall somewhere between the first and second bolt above the ledge. Second scariest fall I ever took.

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Post by rhunt » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:57 pm

blowing clips esp anchor clips are always exciting falls. I blew the anchor clip on chainsaw and stopped level with my belayer(who, if i recall, was *not* standing on the boulder at the base).
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Post by Wes » Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:02 pm

rhunt wrote:blowing clips esp anchor clips are always exciting falls.
Guess I should add the fall I took with two arms full of rope from the chains of special boy when I broke a hold. Nothing like taking a 65 foot fall on a 75 foot route!
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Post by rhunt » Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:14 pm

yep count it and btw thanks for cleaning that route up for us :D
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Post by Caspian » Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:19 pm

A bit of a contrived exciting fall, but I was belaying Danny on there goes the neighborhood and for some reason he didnt feel the need to clip the last bolt. Then for some other reason, we thought i would be a good idea for him to take a whip from the chains.

I ended up at the first bolt which is about 20ft off the ground and Danny ended up around the 2nd. That is the highest I ever got pulled off the ground, so it was an exciting belay too.
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