Ro Shampo Training

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Ro Shampo Training

Post by keith_b00ne » Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:56 pm

Currently I am a solid 5.10 and some 5.11's. Would like to do Ro Shampo or Lip Service in the spring. I am 6-2 so I have reach for the long moves. Which would you pick? What moves shoudl I do to train for these?

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Post by dyno_heaven » Fri Feb 09, 2007 12:59 pm

go get on ro and find out. its pumpy with moves that can be eliminated with your height (im 6 2 also)

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Post by Yasmeen » Fri Feb 09, 2007 1:04 pm

For Lip Service, make sure you're solid both on overhanging jug hauls and really slopey gymnastic feelings moves. It's a very cool route, but requires quite a bit of varied technique. I couldn't use J.J.'s beta for the crux, and instead had to do this pose on the route in order to reach the next hold:
Image
It was pretty amusing, but it worked every time.
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Post by Andrew » Fri Feb 09, 2007 1:28 pm

Lip service is the better route in my opinion.

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Post by pigsteak » Fri Feb 09, 2007 1:38 pm

lip service for sure is the cooler line. Tina Toprope the snot out of it and carry a very long stick clip up the route with you. just as Yasmeen..she forgot to tell you that part of her training.
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Post by gregkerzhner » Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:03 pm

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=206

Power endurance training

Stronger climbers can also use the Campus board for training ’short term’ power endurance, either by utilising the larger ladder rungs, or by using closer rung spacing rungs on the smaller rungs. You will need to be capable of performing between approximately 15 and 30 repetitions to make this worthwhile. This type of training can be highly effective for developing the sort of extreme finger endurance that is tested to the limit when slapping your way up a desperately sustained route.

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Post by itmeansgod » Fri Feb 09, 2007 2:49 pm


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Post by Yasmeen » Sat Feb 10, 2007 6:09 am

:lol: Pigsteak, you're such a jerk. Don't point your self-hatred due to your need to hang static lines next to FAs that you're going to give away anyway because you can't figure out the crux beta at me.

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Post by pigsteak » Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:43 am

you my love, are the crux beta...

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Post by dmw » Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:03 pm

lol

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Post by Shamis » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:56 pm

The crux on ro is really just all about the heel hook placement in my opinion. But in order to send you have to have tons of endurance, especially if you're a big guy.

I suggest finding some overhanging jug haul and running laps on it for training. Artificial or man-made should make no difference. Just keep going up and down jugs.

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Post by tomdarch » Mon Mar 05, 2007 3:38 pm

Shamis wrote:The crux on ro is really just all about the heel hook placement in my opinion. But in order to send you have to have tons of endurance, especially if you're a big guy.

I suggest finding some overhanging jug haul and running laps on it for training. Artificial or man-made should make no difference. Just keep going up and down jugs.
I've seen the crux on Ro done literally seven or eight different ways, so in part you've got to get up there and find your own beta for the crux. Pretty much the rest of it is endurance, so climb, climb, climb, train, train, train. The above advice sounds good. I've had good luck with using a stop watch and bouldering on an overhanging jug wall for as long as I could (starting at 1min 30seconds and working up from there) with 2-4 min rest between laps. (plus if you boost your endurnace and power-endurance, you'll kick ass on most climbs at the Red)

As for Lip Service - i'm going to have to check that out!
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Post by merrick » Tue Mar 06, 2007 8:15 am

ro isn't about the crux it is about endurance and rythem. just climb a lot of steep routes to build a base focusing and moveing steadily but not fast and with a rythym based around pulling harding on the steeper sections and relaxing on the easier sections. work on breathing and finding rests.

and work your routes, memorize them, find the rests, relax your grip and you will send.
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Post by Cliff Destructo » Tue Mar 06, 2007 7:01 pm

Power is key but I'm 5'6 and had no prob w/ the moves the issue is learning to de-pump you can be killer strong but you'll get no where if you can't come back from being pumped Climb smarter not just stronger. do laps get tired very tired and then have your body become conditioned to come back and depump

when I finally got it I was pumped out of my mind at the shuts could not clip them I had to hang on and de-pump staring at the shuts took a couple of minutes to get the power back but relaxing and breathing got me through it

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Post by J » Thu Apr 26, 2007 2:33 pm

why not faast????

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