The Arena - your input, feedback, criticism wanted!

Having problems finding a crag or a route?
Guest

The Arena - your input, feedback, criticism wanted!

Post by Guest » Wed Jun 04, 2003 4:20 pm

Okay, here is a map of The Arena with all the info we have been able to collect so far (full size/easier to read map is here: http://www.fototime.com/CD29FFF86E8DA04/orig.jpg )

Image

Please post corrections, additions, etc. here so we can get this right. Note, some of the route numbers are not shown on the map. And yes, some numbers are upside down.

tsparks
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Post by tsparks » Wed Jun 04, 2003 4:25 pm

Are all routes sport unless marked as trad?
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Guest

Post by Guest » Wed Jun 04, 2003 4:30 pm

tsparks wrote:Are all routes sport unless marked as trad?
Yes. I know that is counterintuitive, but it was simpler in this case.

Guest

Post by Guest » Wed Jun 04, 2003 4:32 pm

oh and the dotted line just to the left and below of the parking area in the upper right corner is where Oil Crack and The Arena Formerly Known as In Between Wall divide.

That's the new wall name, by the way. We're going to call it AFKAIBW, pronounced Aff-kabe-dubya :mrgreen:

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Post by Horatio Felacio » Wed Jun 04, 2003 5:08 pm

i think you've got routes 13, 14, 15 in slightly the wrong place. also, i've heard that routes 18,19,20 are all .11-'s, but you probably got that from terry and he would know better than me.
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Post by Andrew » Wed Jun 04, 2003 7:03 pm

I agree that opening act is 10d, but Encore and Standing Ovation are definitly harder. Probably 11a. Just my opinion and have also heard that from others.
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Post by Artsay » Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:28 pm

I agree with Verbal. I've done 18, 19, and 20. It's been awhile but I thought they were more like (in order) .11a/b, .11a, .10d.
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.

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Post by tomdarch » Wed Jun 04, 2003 9:13 pm

Lynne wrote:oh and the dotted line just to the left and below of the parking area in the upper right corner is where Oil Crack and The Arena Formerly Known as In Between Wall divide.

That's the new wall name, by the way. We're going to call it AFKAIBW, pronounced Aff-kabe-dubya :mrgreen:
Looks like a good dividing point. Also that will be pronounced "aff-kabe-double you" in the civilized, er, I mean, northern parts of the United States. :wink:

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Post by deleted username » Wed Jun 04, 2003 10:24 pm

I'd call Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a
I'd hope I have some say in the matter. ;-)
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Post by SikMonkey » Thu Jun 05, 2003 7:28 am

I have always heard Tech Foul is 12a. Again, I would have throw my vote in with Verbal and Artsay concerning 18, 19, and 20. 10d, 11a, 11a.

Mj
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Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:33 am

thanks guys, keep the input coming. I will make all suggested changes where there is a consensus.

There is, however, inconsistency w/your suggestions for the following:
18.) Standing Ovation 5.10d or 5.11a or 5.11b
19.) Opening Act 5.10d or 5.11a
20.) Encore 5.10d or 11a
my original info is that they are (in order) 10d, 10d, 11a. So.....?

Has anyone else heard that Technical Foul is 12a?

JB, was Chocolate Waterfall downgraded? :P

Ho, where are routes 13, 14, 15 - which direction should I move them?

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Post by Artsay » Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:33 am

Technical Foul is a one move .12a. I think Terry even told me that.
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.

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Post by SikMonkey » Thu Jun 05, 2003 9:50 am

Hey Michelle,
have you been on Tech Foul yet? I really want to head out there and try it, but I haven't been to the Southern Region in a month or so.

Lynne,
sorry about the bad info. I had them backwards. I think Terry said 18, 19, and 20 were 11a, 11a, 10d. My bad.

Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Jun 05, 2003 10:05 am

I will make the following changes:

18.) Standing Ovation 5.11a
19.) Opening Act 5.11a
20.) Encore 5.10d

and

13) Technical Foul 5.12a

and

5) Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a

good?

Guest

Post by Guest » Thu Jun 05, 2003 10:10 am

in fact, here is the complete list as it now stands. Please submit any details you have for the on-line guidebook - missing route names, FA(s), year, route length, number of bolts, descent (anchors), moves, whether or not it stays dry, description/directions, etc. Please only provide this info if you are the FA or if you have info from the FA or are otherwise certain. THANK YOU in advance!!

1) Big in Japan 5.7
2) Stairway to Freebird 5.10c
3) Rebel Yell 5.10c
4) (Southern Comfort) 5.10a
5) Chocolate Waterfall 5.10a
6) Hat Trick 5.9
7) Exacta 5.7
8) Edge of Your Seat 5.10a
9) Split Decision (trad) 5.9
10) Main Event 5.12
11) Plan 9 5.9+
12) Karmic Disruption 5.10d
13) Technical Foul 5.12a
14) Over Time 5.12c
15) Sudden Death 5.12d
15a) trad 5.9 dihedral w/ anchors (Kellyn Gorder)
15b) Tip Off 5.12b (not sure about location)
The Arena proper:
16) Stage Fright 5.12a
17) Dope Show 5.11c
18) Standing Ovation 5.11a
19) Opening Act 5.11a
20) Encore 5.10d
21) Take a Bow 5.10c
22) short 5.9 sport
These next 5 routes are on the buttress
above the main parking area:
23) Two Pitcher 5.10b
24) open project 5.12a/b
25) John Bronaugh trad project 5.11d R
26) open project 5.12c/d
27) 5.9 trad flake w/ anchors
28) 5.11 sport slab ??
29) 5.10c sport slab
start above ladder on dirt ledge
30) 5.8 trad dihedral
start above ladder on dirt ledge
31) 5.6 sport
32) Blake's 5.13a project (2nd pitch)
33) trad crack to anchors of #31)

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