The Arena - your input, feedback, criticism wanted!

Having problems finding a crag or a route?
SikMonkey
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Post by SikMonkey » Thu Jun 05, 2003 10:40 am

Oh, I just remembered, the "short 5.9 sport" is called Despair and I am not sure if Blake or Terry bolted it.

Mj
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Gothmog
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Post by Gothmog » Thu Jun 05, 2003 3:50 pm

#30 is called Through the Turnstile and I thought it was 5.7, #31 is called Penalty Box and I thought it was 5.7 too. My family members that climb think its harder than Blue Plate Special.

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Post by Andrew » Thu Jun 05, 2003 5:51 pm

Lynne, Encore is 11a and opening act is 10d. I am 100% sure about this. I think?
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Gothmog
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Post by Gothmog » Thu Jun 05, 2003 8:35 pm

Just got back from the Arena. We did Exacta. It felt like 5.8 and it looked like some big holds had broken. Also, I wasn't too happy about the bolting job. Seems like someone with longer arms than mine placed those bolts.

With traffic it may be a two star climb. Got some choss and iffy rock right now. It's ok, with good position and thought provoking moves. One word of advice:don't get suckered onto the ledge at the next to last bolt. It's a bad idea.

Also did Big in Japan again. Great route!

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Post by hamsco » Fri Jun 06, 2003 10:28 am

I think the "short 5.9 sport" #22 (Despair? ) is a 5.8

SikMonkey
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Post by SikMonkey » Fri Jun 06, 2003 10:38 am

That's what I thought too.

Mj
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Post by Yasmeen » Fri Jun 06, 2003 11:57 am

Verbal wrote:Lynne, Encore is 11a and opening act is 10d. I am 100% sure about this. I think?
I heard from Terry that Encore is 10d and that Opening Act is an 11a... isn't that what Lynne said she was submitting to the guidebook?
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Post by Guest » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:14 pm

Yasmeen wrote:
Verbal wrote:Lynne, Encore is 11a and opening act is 10d. I am 100% sure about this. I think?
I heard from Terry that Encore is 10d and that Opening Act is an 11a... isn't that what Lynne said she was submitting to the guidebook?
Hey Yasmeen! Where the hell have you been, girl?

Yes, I'm going with Encore 10d and Opening Act 11a. Thanks everyone.

I'll update the list again after I get more input. BRING IT ON, PEOPLE! :D
Last edited by Guest on Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

SikMonkey
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Post by SikMonkey » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:15 pm

That's the way I understood it, but they are all 3 10d/11a's so it's six one way, half dozen the other.

Mj
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Post by Guest » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:16 pm

SikMonkey wrote:That's the way I understood it, but they are all 3 10d/11a's so it's six one way, half dozen the other.

Mj
That's exactly right. Terry's original notes indicate "10d/11a" on all three routes.

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Post by SCIN » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:27 pm

I think Technical Foul feels about .12b and that's what I've always heard it was rated.
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Post by Guest » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:31 pm

SCIN wrote:I think Technical Foul feels about .12b and that's what I've always heard it was rated.
SCIN you little trouble maker!
Artsay wrote:Technical Foul is a one move .12a. I think Terry even told me that.

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Post by SikMonkey » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:32 pm

Oh yeah, and it seems I recall him saying 10a for Take a Bow too. :D In my opinion, Terry will sometimes sandbag a bit and let the following ascents confirm or elevate the grade as opposed to overrating things and then trying to keep them there. In the end though, the Arena is a frikkin' work of art.

Mj
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Post by SCIN » Fri Jun 06, 2003 12:40 pm

I'd probably go with .12a for Technical Foul. It's not nearly as hard as Hakuna Matada or The Rifleman.
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Post by Power2U » Fri Jun 06, 2003 2:50 pm

Let's not turn the Red into the land of overgraded routes. We want people lowering off saying, "Damn that was a solid 5.X!" NOT "Man, what a joke for 5.X."

When on the line go with the lower grade. Otherwise you get a rep. as being, "soft", and for the most part the Red is anything but soft. Lets not change that.

Just my opinion....Do you agree?

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