Roadside Crag Open??

Having problems finding a crag or a route?
MarkM
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Roadside Crag Open??

Post by MarkM » Mon Mar 12, 2012 3:49 pm

Does anyone know if Roadside Crag is open, or not? I am looking for an area other than Muir Valley to climb .9-.10a b. I also was curious if anyone has any good ideas for high vantage points accessed by foot for watching sunrise/sunset. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by pigsteak » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:04 pm

no.

and none.
sorry.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by climb2core » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:23 pm

Ha, some comments are better off left not said. Wish I had hit the delete button a few times...

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:26 pm

It's true though. Anyone shelling out the big bucks for a day of guided climbing there is part of the problem.

Anyway... you could hike up Natural Bridge, Skybridge, or especially Chimney Rock for good sunsets/sunrises.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by climb2core » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:30 pm

Is that for real... Is one of the owners doing guiding there now?

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:32 pm

That's the word...

http://www.caverunbikeshop.com/

"We are co-owners of the famous Roadside climbing area in the Red River Gorge and are the only authorized guiding service for that area."

$175/day... ka-CHING!! HAHAHAHA!!

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by climb2core » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:53 pm

I would say that is pretty much the truth based upon that link. I need to go back to finish off a couple of projects... I wonder how much they would charge.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:58 pm

$175 plus the psychic scarring of being gay-uided... could be worse, to climb at Skytop in the Gunks, you have to pay for the dumbass guide ($280) AND a night at the Mohonk Mountain House ($400+) HAHAHA! That castrated assclown Marty Molitoris who runs the service there used to chase us off all the time. It's hard to imagine anything more pathetic than trying to squeeze a paycheck out of climbing or guiding! And climbing itself is such a lame yuppie sport these days... worse than road biking for sure, even with the blood doping and those "ghey" spandex outfits.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by Yasmeen » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:13 pm

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... 28&t=14083 - posted Tue May 24, 2011 at 8:02 am
http://www.caverunbikeshop.com - Updated 5/26/11
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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:21 pm

Timely indeed. So why the need to blame climbers as a group for the public closure? Guilt? Shame? If there are individual behaviors landowners don't like, post up some rules, and by and large they will be followed... 99% of climbers are an acquiescent and obedient bunch, and we can whip the rest into awareness and submission. They expressed disapproval of the chain draws and the abandoned project/rope, so we cleaned up the mess that very week, along with a bag of trash from the trails. Don't like dogs and hammocks? Ban them. Crag-base erosion an issue? Let us do another trail day to support the soil. On the other hand, if you really want to profit from the property by turning it into exclusive business, fine, just come out and say that up front.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by clif » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:26 pm

it is possible that the gradual reintroduction of climbing to GFNP begins with limited guiding provided by the owners. it almost seems reasonable.

and damn dustin, i was sure you were a covert operative when i learned your last name was Stephens, doth thou? ;)
training is for people who care, i have a job.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by KD » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:42 pm

Oh my god! " All you goddam hippies need to get your permadraws and hammocks the hell out of here Now ... "a guide service is available for paying customers." This is some funny shit for sure. AND a an Access Grant to top it off. My Daddy used to get in trouble for cashing paychecks and loaning a few dollars out, but this scammy shit is supported! Funny stuff. On the other note- I always wanted to see the sunset from Nautical Twilight but haven't done it yet.
Last edited by KD on Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by dustonian » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:47 pm

GStephens wrote:We noticed that what appear to be homemade permadraws have been installed on several route without our knowledge. I would like to know who took it upon the self to install these. They are unsafe as they appear to all have hardware store quick links connecting a few line of chain to the bolt hangers. These are not rated for climbing and have not been tested. In short, there is no quality control of these, nor do they appear to be stainless steel. At the end of the chain is an aluminum carabiner. This carabiner should be stainless steel so that it has the same materials properties as the other components - that is, steel. We all know about the cut rope at Muir last year due to carabiner wear. Think about the aluminum carabiners on these homemade permadraws and how the ones at crus sections will see hundreds of falls as compared to those on your own rack.
Also, this paragraph is not true. The biners were steel, and the quicklinks and chain were the same grade steel you see on thousands of anchors on routes throughout the Red and the rest of the world. That said, it is obvious that consent should have been obtained before they were placed, although I believe it was more an act of ignorance rather than willful disregard for the landowners' wishes.

No, I did not place them, as there are far more exciting things in the RRG to waste money on.

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by climb2core » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:57 pm

Ha, I think MarkM unwittingly opened a can of worms...

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Re: Roadside Crag Open??

Post by Spikeddem » Mon Mar 12, 2012 5:58 pm

What a horrible tease of a topic title to see on the front page...

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